Letters from Indochina (Part 7)

This entry is part 7 of 39 in the series Letters from Indochina

April 6, 2025

Letters from Indochina (Part 7)

By Simon J. Lau

This morning I visited Angkor Wat, Cambodia’s most iconic temple and the largest religious monument in the world. Originally built in the 12th century as a Hindu temple before later converting to Buddhism, it’s known for its grand towers and symmetrical design.

I woke up at 4 a.m. to get there in time for sunrise. Unfortunately, the platform in front of the main complex was under heavy restoration, with scaffolding covering a large portion of the facade. It really ruined any chance of getting a clean shot from the front, so I opted to take my sunrise photos mostly as silhouettes instead.

Today I only visited parts of the Small Circuit of temples—small in comparison to the Grand Circuit, which I plan to explore more of tomorrow. The Small Circuit includes the most famous and iconic sites, like Angkor Wat. The Grand Circuit, on the other hand, covers a much wider area and features lesser-known but equally impressive temples. It’s also known for having fewer crowds and offering more variety in both atmosphere and layout.

My guesthouse has been great so far. Even though I’m only paying $16 a night, breakfast is included. Since sunrise visits are common here, the staff will pack you a takeaway breakfast if you let them know the night before. Mine wasn’t anything fancy, but considering how few food options there are that early, it was a huge convenience—and enough to get me through the morning.

I sent this photo to my parents—specifically my mom. Before I left for this trip, she was in full panic mode about me coming to Cambodia. She’s never been here, but she’s read way too much fake news on the Chinese internet. She was convinced I’d be kidnapped and taken to a scam center, and that my organs would be harvested. I sent her the photo with the caption: “Cambodia is really dangerous.”

There were literally thousands of people at Angkor Wat at 6 a.m., many from Europe, China, and the U.S. Yes, like any country, Cambodia has its risks—but it’s not Myanmar. (For those who don’t know, Myanmar is currently in a civil war and is where many of the scam centers are actually located.)

Later, I had lunch at a place called Noodle Brothers (reminded me of Brothers B). Cambodians have their own noodle dishes, often served in a light, savory broth with fresh herbs, lime, and occasionally a dollop of chili paste or fermented fish sauce on the side. It reminded me of pho, but the broth here was a lot thicker. It was delicious! This entire meal also only cost me $2.25 USD. Honestly, I could live here forever.

At around 3 p.m., I laid down for a quick nap—which turned into a full-blown sleep marathon. I didn’t wake up until 11 p.m., but the heat had really taken it out of me, and the rest helped me recharge. When I finally ventured back out again, this time to the riverfront, I heard live music coming from a rooftop and decided to check it out.

Even though I couldn’t understand the lyrics, the music—especially the beat and rhythm—felt like it could’ve easily passed for Western pop. A large party was seated near me, which I think was a celebration for the upcoming Cambodian New Year. It reminded me of an office holiday party—full of laughter, drinks, and karaoke.

And wow—some of them could really sing. I don’t know if it was just this particular group or if Cambodians in general are good singers, but I was seriously impressed. (It wasn’t like karaoke in America, where most people who take the mic are just awful—myself included.) It was such an unexpectedly fun way to end the night.