Letters from Indochina (Part 14)

This entry is part 14 of 39 in the series Letters from Indochina

April 13, 2025

Letters from Indochina (Part 14)

By Simon J. Lau

Da Lat is a city in Vietnam’s Central Highlands known for its cool climate, pine forests, and hilly terrain. Originally established by the French as a mountain retreat, it still carries traces of colonial architecture. The region’s temperate weather also makes it ideal for growing flowers, and Da Lat is now considered Vietnam’s floral capital, with colorful blooms found in markets, farms, and gardens across the city.

In the morning, I visited Bao Dai’s Palace 3, one of the two surviving residences of Vietnam’s last emperor. Bao Dai, who ruled during the final years of the Nguyen Dynasty, was a French-educated monarch who spent much of his reign balancing colonial influence and internal unrest. Of his two residences in Da Lat, Palace 1 served primarily as a retreat and political meeting space. It’s recently been renovated and is said to have a more stately atmosphere, with sweeping grounds and a grander design—but it’s currently closed to the public.

Palace 3, by contrast, was his family home—modest by royal standards and built in a 1930s Art Deco style. That said, it was a bit of a disappointment. When I shared photos of it with friends, one said it “looks like an office park outside of Orlando,” and they weren’t wrong. It definitely left something to be desired.

What I did find interesting, though, was that Bao Dai gave the most elegant room to his wife, Empress Nam Phuong (the larger room with the blue wall), while choosing a simpler bedroom for himself (ironically, the room with the pink wall). I’d like to think he did it out of love—but in reality, they were separated for many years. She moved to France, and he stayed behind in Vietnam with his concubine. Who knows—maybe he eventually migrated to her room after all.

I also visited Crazy House (officially Hang Nga Guesthouse), a surreal, Gaudi-inspired architectural labyrinth designed by Vietnamese architect Dang Viet Nga. (Her father, Truong Chinh, was a major political figure in Vietnam—he served as General Secretary of the Communist Party and later as the country’s second president.)

When construction first began in the 1990s, the house was met with strong resistance from local authorities, who criticized its bizarre design, questioned its structural integrity, and worried it didn’t align with the city’s aesthetics. (All very reasonable.) For years, the project faced pushback. But Nga persisted—funding the project privately and eventually receiving national support that allowed her to continue building freely.

I initially wasn’t planning to visit—it looked way too kitschy and out of place—but I’m glad I changed my mind. It turned out to be a really fun space to explore. Think hobbit house meets Salvador Dali: twisting staircases, oddly shaped rooms, and suspended bridges that make it feel like a fantasy maze.

That said, it’s definitely not kid-safe. Some of the staircases and walkways were shockingly narrow and steep, with gaps large enough for small children—or distracted adults—to fall through. Still, it was one of the most unusual (and fun!) places I’ve visited so far on this trip.

In the evening, I walked around Xuan Huong Lake, an artificial lake at the heart of Da Lat. What stood out to me most was how walkable this part of town is. In much of Vietnam, pedestrians are treated like obstacles—crossing the street can feel like an extreme sport.

For example, there’s a huge roundabout next to the lake, and navigating it is no joke. But once you’re past it, you can enjoy a full uninterrupted loop around the lake. It’s one of the only places I’ve found in Vietnam where you can walk without constantly dodging motorbikes—and for that alone, I loved it.

To close out, I wanted to share my favorite meal I had today: beef noodle soup with crab balls and a serving of Da Lat’s famous yogurt. I ate at Bun Bo Co Be, a highly rated spot on Google—and just steps from my hotel. The soup was excellent, but the real standout was the yogurt, known locally as yaourt. Made from fermented sweetened condensed milk, it has a rich, tangy flavor and an ultra-smooth texture. Served cold and sold all over the city, it’s simple but seriously addicting. One was not enough, I had two!