Letters from Indochina (Part 3)

This entry is part 3 of 39 in the series Letters from Indochina

April 2, 2025

Letters from Indochina (Part 3)

By Simon J. Lau

This morning I had breakfast and three coffees—the tiny Vietnamese-style ones. Still, both my waiter and the waitress laughed at me; they were clearly flummoxed that anyone could drink that many. As I paid, I made sure to share this translated note with them: “Coffee here is good, the glasses are just too small for an American though.” I didn’t want them thinking I was some kind of weirdo. It’s not me—it’s the American in me. 🇺🇸

Later, I visited the Royal Palace. It’s a grand complex in the heart of Phnom Penh, right along the river, and it’s been the residence of Cambodia’s kings since the 1860s. However, the original palace was mostly demolished and rebuilt in the early 20th century. Its golden roofs, manicured gardens, and classic Khmer architecture make it one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.

Getting in was a bit of a challenge. There wasn’t a clearly marked entrance, and I ended up walking around the entire perimeter of the complex—which felt like walking 20 city blocks. I eventually found the main entrance, but from the outside, it was pretty obscure. To make matters worse, there were very few visitors today, so there was no line or crowd to help distinguish the main gate from the many side entrances, some of which actually had more foot traffic than this one.

One of the highlights of the palace grounds is the Moonlight Pavilion, an open-air structure with a gleaming golden roof that faces the riverfront. It’s used for royal ceremonies, dance performances, and official functions. Visitors aren’t allowed inside, but it’s easy to admire from the entrance. It kind of feels like a royal stage set.

Other notable landmarks include the Silver Pagoda (first photo on the right), King Ang Duong Stupa (second photo), and the Statue of King Norodom (third photo). I won’t go into any excruciating detail about each, but I found them to be the most worthwhile landmarks here to photograph.

Ultimately, I wish I could say I thoroughly enjoyed the visit, but by late morning it was already blisteringly hot and unlike other tourist sites I’ve seen, there were no self-guided tours or audio guides available. I could have joined a live tour, but I generally hate those, so I ended up aimlessly wandering around, photographing landmarks without much context. That said, that’s on me.

Afterward, I dropped by the Central Market. It’s a massive, domed yellow building with four long wings branching out like a giant X. Inside, it’s packed with stalls selling everything from jewelry and electronics to everyday necessities. It’s lively, colorful, and slightly overwhelming (in a good way).

By the end of my visit, I walked away with a few items, and although I usually love to bargain, this was one of the rare times I didn’t bother. Sure, I could’ve saved a few bucks, but I thought—what is that to me compared to what it is to them? So I let the vendors keep the difference.

Since arriving in Cambodia, I’ve been sticking to a more structured routine that includes a mid-day nap to avoid the worst of the heat. Today, when I woke up, I was greeted by a torrential downpour—the kind that’s so loud it actually woke me up. Luckily, there was a break in the clouds long enough for me to head out and grab dinner.

I had planned to take a $5 USD river cruise later on (I’d seen it in a YouTube video—it looked fun and happened to leave from the end of my street), but it was clear more rain was coming (and sure enough, it did!). So I called it a night. This would be my last dinner in Phnom Penh—for now. I thought it was a good way to end this first leg of my trip. Tomorrow, I leave for Battambang. Onward!