April 3, 2025
Letters from Indochina (Part 4)
By Simon J. Lau
As a farewell to Phnom Penh, I went on one last photo walk. I found a busy street in front of Kandal Market, a local open-air market, tucked myself behind a parked car, and started photographing passersby as they walked, biked, and motorbiked past me. I caught a neat shot of a rickshaw just as the rider cruised by. It’s not the sharpest photo I’ve ever taken, but I liked that he turned his head right as I hit the shutter. I love capturing people’s natural, unfiltered expressions. Those fleeting little moments when they either don’t know, or have just realized, they’re being photographed.
After, I quickly packed my bags and hopped on a six-hour bus ride to Battambang. There’s a daily bus that runs between Phnom Penh and Battambang, but since it’s the off-season, there were only four passengers on board today (including me). Even though we had assigned seats, the driver told us, “You can sit anywhere.” I stuck with my assigned seat anyway, but it was nice having the space next to me free for my bags. I didn’t expect it, but the seats almost fully reclined, which made the ride surprisingly comfortable. Perfect for napping!
Our rest stop was at a small roadside establishment with bathrooms, a mini-market, and a few restaurants. The toilets were oddly arranged. I stood there for a minute trying to figure out how to flush it. Eventually, I realized I had to scoop water from a red tub in the corner and pour it into the toilet to flush it manually. At least it’s better than a squat toilet.
As for lunch options, this was definitely one of those roadside establishments geared toward tourists. No prices listed anywhere! I, however, wasn’t falling for it. I had a big breakfast in the morning and figured I’d hold out for a good, proper sit-down meal in Battambang.
We eventually arrived in Battambang, traditionally considered Cambodia’s second-largest city, though it feels much more like a laid-back provincial town. It’s known for its French colonial architecture, a small but active arts scene, and the rice fields that stretch out just beyond the city center. There’s also a lively night market that gives the place a local energy.
Battambang once formed part of the Khmer Empire’s inner dominion, a region from which political authority and cultural innovation radiated outward. But in the late 18th century, it was annexed by Thailand, and governed by Thai-appointed rulers for more than a century. In 1907, under pressure from France, Thailand agreed to cede Battambang and several surrounding provinces. These territories were incorporated into French Indochina, reshaping the colonial map and returning historically significant land to Cambodia.
By the time I arrived, I was famished. I quickly checked into my hotel and found a proper Khmer restaurant nearby. It’s considered high-end by local standards, but the vibe was still casual. What made me laugh was when I asked for rice, they brought out an entire pot of freshly steamed rice. I probably ate more rice than I should have, but hey, better too much than too little. The dish I ordered was banana flour with chicken. The chicken was a little dry, but overall the meal was fine. What stood out: the price. An entree and two draft beers came out to just $6.75 USD, a total bargain.
As a nightcap, I visited Miss Wong, a cocktail bar tucked into Battambang’s Old Quarter. The bar has a neat vintage, Shanghai-inspired decor, and I spent the evening enjoying cocktails on the patio while looking out onto the main street. Battambang is definitely a sleepier town than Phnom Penh, but I’m looking forward to exploring more of the surrounding area tomorrow.
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