Stories from China (Part 21)

This entry is part 21 of 40 in the series Stories from China

June 4, 2023

Stories from China (Part 21)

By Simon J. Lau

I made it to Lijiang, home to the Naxi people. This ethnic minority is believed to have migrated from Tibet and eventually established the Kingdom of Lijiang, ruling the region for centuries. Their independence ended when Kublai Khan conquered them and incorporated the territory into the Yuan dynasty. Over time, Lijiang became an important stop along the Silk Road and a key center for the Ancient Tea Horse Road, famous for its role in the trade of tea, silk embroidery, and horses between Yunnan, Tibet, and beyond.

The ancient city, known today as the Old Town of Lijiang, is renowned for its intricate network of canals and stone bridges. These waterways wind through narrow streets lined with traditional wooden homes, courtyards, and marketplaces. Even today, the sound of running water follows you everywhere.

Upon arriving at my hotel, the owner ran into problems digitally submitting my personal information to the local authorities. In China, foreigners are required to have this information filed with the local police at each new stay as part of the country’s surveillance apparatus.

No problem! The owner, a very confident middle-aged woman, dragged me around town to photocopy my documents and then marched them over to the local police station. The whole ordeal took more than an hour, and she handled it without breaking a sweat. Mind you, my accommodations were only $19 USD per night.

This was probably part of her daily responsibilities and worth it for her, but definitely not worth it for me. I was fully expecting this to happen at some point, and while it was interesting to see how the process actually worked, I would prefer not to waste my time doing it again.

In the evening, I took my hotel owner’s recommendation and checked out a folk bar. In China, these bars are small, intimate venues that often feature live acoustic music rooted in local traditions or influenced by Western folk styles. They draw a mix of university students, young professionals, and music lovers looking for something more laid-back than the usual nightclubs. The one I visited was among the most popular in the area. It was lively, packed, and full of energy.

Some folks seemed to notice that I might be a foreigner (there are very few foreigners here), and one of the workers eventually came over to talk with me. Before long, he invited me to join him and his friends at their table. Not one to pass on a chance to hang out with locals, I agreed.

They turned out to be an animated bunch. Still, I couldn’t quite tell if the two guys seated next to me were hitting on me or just being very friendly. There was a lot of touching, especially hands on my knees. I didn’t feel uncomfortable, but I also didn’t want to give off the wrong impression. When I saw a chance to make a graceful exit, I thanked them for inviting me, bought them another round of drinks, and closed out my tab.

For dinner, I had a feast of freshly grilled skewers and a pile of oysters, which were especially good. A plate of seasoning with spicy and salty flavors came on the side, perfect for dipping the skewers into before each bite. A couple of local beers rounded out the meal. It was a great way to wrap up the day and an excellent start to my time in Lijiang.