Stories from China (Part 22)

This entry is part 22 of 40 in the series Stories from China

June 5, 2023

Stories from China (Part 22)

By Simon J. Lau

I visited Shuhe Ancient Town, just a short distance from Lijiang. Often described as the cradle of Naxi culture, it was one of the earliest Naxi settlements before Lijiang grew into the political and cultural center of the region. While Lijiang became famous as a hub for trade and governance, Shuhe retained more of its small-town and local character.

Today, Shuhe is quieter and less commercialized than Lijiang’s Old Town, with far fewer tourists. I was told on my way there that many overseas Chinese have recently moved in, drawn by its slower pace and preserved architecture. Cobbled streets wind past stone bridges and canals, while traditional wooden homes and small courtyards give the place a relaxed, almost village-like atmosphere.

I wasn’t specifically looking to meet other overseas Chinese, but I ended up spending the afternoon at a hip, Western-themed coffee shop. I don’t usually rave about coffee shops, but I completely fell in love with this one. The place was decorated like a mid-century modern British home, full of warm wood tones, low-slung furniture, and vintage lamps and paintings that gave the whole space a cozy yet stylish feel.

The calm atmosphere made it easy to sit back and relax. Since being laid off, I have avoided thinking about work because it has felt too heavy, but here, for the first time, I felt like I could finally slow down and start considering what comes next.

Since arriving in China, one thing that continues to surprise me is how nonchalant the Chinese can be when sharing their history. Take this entrance to the Old Town of Lijiang, for example. It sits between a China Mobile shop and a small, nondescript restaurant. One might expect that, given the cultural significance of this ancient town, the entrance would be designed to feel grand or at least set apart. But perhaps the thinking here is that with China’s 3,000 years of history, this is just one of many ancient towns, and there is no need to make a big deal out of this one.

On my way back to my hotel, I saw my first Christian church in China. Strangely, it’s been recently renovated, but the government doesn’t allow religious practices inside. It functions more like a museum than as a house of worship. It felt unusual, if not a little bizarre to me.

Finally, I’ve noticed that Lijiang is far more dog-friendly than any other city I’ve visited in China. I see dogs everywhere, in tourist areas, shops, and even cafes. As someone who loves these furry friends, it’s been a welcome and heartwarming change.