Stories from China (Part 26)

This entry is part 26 of 40 in the series Stories from China

June 9, 2023

Stories from China (Part 26)

By Simon J. Lau

I spent some time at Green Lake Park, Kunming’s crown jewel. Right in the heart of the city, the park is made up of several small lakes linked by stone bridges that date back centuries. Willow trees line the water’s edge, their branches dipping into the surface as paddle boats drift lazily by. Pavilions and shaded walkways offer places to sit and people-watch while vendors sell tea, snacks, and trinkets along the paths.

What makes Green Lake Park stand out isn’t its size. It’s actually modest compared to the massive parks in other Chinese cities, but the atmosphere is what makes it special. It’s not overcrowded or hectic like many other central parks. Instead, it has a slower pace, and the mild temperatures make spending time outdoors here very comfortable. It’s easily one of the most enjoyable parks I’ve visited on this trip so far.

The Yunnan Military Academy is located across the street from one corner of the park, making it an easy stop for visitors exploring the area. Founded in the late Qing dynasty in the early 20th century, the academy later became a key military school for the Republic of China.

After the Chinese Civil War, the Republic of China government retreated to Taiwan in 1949, where it continues to exist today. During World War II, American troops fought alongside Chinese military graduates from this very academy as they pushed back the Imperial Japanese Army. Many of its graduates went on to have decorated military careers and hold prominent political positions in both China and Taiwan.

In the afternoon, I needed a pick-me-up, so I grabbed a Red Bull. I don’t often drink Red Bulls, but for some reason, I have grown used to it in China. While at the shop, which also doubles as a cigarette shop, I decided to ask the person working there to help me buy a pack of cigarettes for an American friend.

China has a dizzying number of cigarette brands, far more than in the United States. I don’t smoke myself, so the variety was overwhelming. The worker explained that what is considered a “premium” brand often depends on regional preferences. For example, there is a brand actually called Chinese Cigarette that has long been considered a premium national brand. In the past, it was even used as a form of bribe for high-level government officials. However, here in Yunnan, there is another brand that locals consider premium, though it wasn’t in stock that day.

There is also a preference between thin and thick cigarettes. I explained that in the United States, thin cigarettes are generally associated with women. The worker asked if my friend was a man or a woman. When I told him he was a man, the worker suggested thick cigarettes. I replied that I would rather give him thin ones. We both laughed. I’m still debating whether to buy them at all since I’m not a fan of smoking and have my doubts about whether any Chinese cigarette brand, premium or not, is especially safe. We’ll see.

Since this is the closest I’ll get to Southeast Asia on this trip, it felt only right to try some Southeast Asian cuisine for a change. I decided on Thai food, and this was my view from inside the restaurant. Life doesn’t get much better than this.