April 14, 2025
Letters from Indochina (Part 15)
By Simon J. Lau
I made my way back to Hoi An, a historic town located in Central Vietnam. Known for its well-preserved Ancient Town, lantern-lit streets, and scenic riverfront, Hoi An was once a bustling trading port. Today, it’s one of the most photographed places in the country.
Much of the town’s character can be traced to the diverse communities that once passed through or settled here, especially the Chinese. Beginning in the 17th century, waves of Chinese merchants made Hoi An their home, establishing thriving communities that helped shape the town’s identity. Their influence is still visible today in Hoi An’s ornate assembly halls, ancestral clan houses, and Taoist temples. These buildings were not only places of worship but also served as cultural and commercial centers for Chinese expatriates.
I visited here with Jean in 2017. It was one of our first stops in Vietnam, and I remember finding it incredibly novel and new. In fact, Anthony Bourdain also visited Hoi An and shared his experience in his No Reservations episode, Vietnam: There’s No Place Like Home. That was a heartfelt episode where Bourdain reflected on his deep affection for Vietnam, not just its food, but its people, culture, and pace of life. In many ways, I feel the same. That shared affection is part of what has brought me back to Vietnam.
That said, I regret visiting Hoi An again. When we came in 2017, it was popular, but now, it feels totally overrun. There are more Westerners than shopkeepers, and the whole place feels overly commercialized. At one point, while I was walking along the riverfront, a vendor pitched me a romantic boat tour, solo. He gave me the full couple-style sales pitch, and I had to ask, “Don’t I need a date for this?” He chuckled, but that moment summed it all up for me: Hoi An has sadly become a total tourist trap.


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