Baja Bound (Part 13)

This entry is part 13 of 23 in the series Baja Bound

April 17, 2023

By Simon J. Lau

Today, I conquered Cuesta del Infierno, better known as Baja’s “Highway to Hell.” I was up before sunrise and hit the road early, knowing the climb would be tough but hoping to beat the RVs and big rigs that usually crawl their way up the mountain. The plan worked, and there wasn’t another vehicle in sight as I wound my way up the steep, twisting grade just as the sky behind me began to lighten.

What I didn’t expect were the brutal crosswinds waiting on the other side. As soon as I crested the pass, it felt like I had ridden straight into a wind tunnel. Gusts slammed into me from every direction, tossing me around like a tin can for what felt like forever. By the time I rolled into San Ignacio, 50 miles later, I was completely drained and grateful for the calm of this oasis town.

San Ignacio is a small but beautiful place, a green pocket of palm trees and a slow-moving river surrounded by desert hills. I traded in my motorcycle for a bicycle my host lent me and rode into the center of town. At the entrance, a full skeleton of a gray whale stands on display, reminding visitors of the lagoon nearby where thousands migrate each winter.

The heart of San Ignacio is its main square, a leafy plaza shaded by palms and lined with shops and benches where locals gather. On one side of the square stands Mission San Ignacio, built in the 1700s from volcanic rock and still remarkably well preserved. The mission overlooks the square like it has for centuries, its thick stone walls and arched entrance a stark contrast to the lush greenery around it.

While in the square, I ran into several remote tech workers over lunch. They’ve been traveling through Baja for months, living and working out of their converted school buses and staying connected to the internet via Starlink. I loved hearing about their routines and the places they’ve visited. Maddy, one of the tech workers, even gave me a tour of her school bus.

On my way back, I spotted a place called Hotel Fong and decided to circle back to talk to the owner, curious if he was Chinese. It turns out the owner, Nano, is half Cantonese, and it was his father who originally built the hotel. Nano tried his best to convince me to stay, even offering me a discount to sweeten the deal. 😅

However, I’m happy with where I am and politely declined Nano’s offer. I’m staying at a B&B called Rancho Espinoza, a former hacienda that Maria and William, the current owners, recently renovated. The property has been in Maria’s family for generations, and they’ve done such a beautiful job restoring it. The decor is perfect, warm, welcoming, and traditional.

I also snapped a few photos of one of the workers building a new casita for the B&B. His name is Narciso, though everyone calls him Wicho. For a one-man crew, he’s doing an incredible job. He’s clearly someone who takes real pride in his work.

Finally, my route from Santa Rosalía to San Ignacio (77 km or 48 miles).