Baja Bound (Part 15)

This entry is part 15 of 23 in the series Baja Bound

April 19, 2023

By Simon J. Lau

This morning, I said goodbye to Rancho Espinoza. William, my host and the owner, shared not only his home with me, but also personal stories that made it feel like more than just a stop along the way. With its warm hospitality and the surrounding hills and palms, this old hacienda will be hard to forget or leave behind.

Before hitting the road, I had my usual breakfast. In case you’re wondering, it’s a banana, a bottle of Electrolit, a granola bar, and a little peanut butter treat. The banana and electrolytes have been essential for keeping muscle cramps away while I’m on the road. I’ve been stretching religiously on this trip, but these have helped just as much.

From there, I made the short drive, less than 100 miles, back to Guerrero Negro so I could go whale watching mañana. The route cuts through a windy corridor, and by the time I rolled into town, the gusts were still howling, kicking up dust across the streets and shaking the signs. This ride felt very rugged.

For lunch, I stopped at a little stand called Birriería Brianda, and the waitress recommended something called the “Super Donkey.” Curious, I went for it. I’ve since learned that “burrito” literally means “little donkey” in Spanish, a name that likely came about because like donkeys carrying heavy loads, these rolled tortillas could hold a hefty amount of ingredients.

After polishing off the Super Donkey, I headed back feeling full and a little proud of how well I’ve adapted to life on the road. Along the way, I realized that since coming to Mexico, I’ve gotten very good at cleaning my clothes in the sink and air drying them anywhere. The heavy-duty metal clothespins and portable washing rack have been game changers. I’ll never bring more clothes than I need for a trip.

Later that evening, as I was settling in for the night, I met a new companion. I’ve (temporarily) adopted a stray dog. I found him wandering the complex, shared some food with him, and gave him water. I’ve since named him Renegade.

Finally, my route from San Ignacio to Guerrero Negro (150 km or 93 miles).