Baja Bound (Part 18)

This entry is part 18 of 23 in the series Baja Bound

April 22, 2023

By Simon J. Lau

Today, I departed from Cataviña, and this ride turned out to be one of my favorites in a while. The desert here is unlike anywhere else in Baja, towering cacti, massive boulders scattered across the hillsides, and stretches of road so empty they feel endless. Unlike earlier parts of my trip, there was almost no wind today. Without battling the gusts, I could ride at a slower pace, take in the silence of the desert, and fully appreciate the changing light on the rocks and sand.

Three hours later, I rolled into San Quintín and checked into the Old Mill, a hotel set right on the water with views of the bay and within walking distance of the pier. It was a huge upgrade from where I stayed on my last visit here. That evening, I watched the sunset, the sky glowing orange and pink over the calm water. It was beautiful.

Down by the pier, there’s a massive shark statue with its jaws open wide, straight out of the movie Jaws. It even has a seal clamped in its mouth, frozen mid-attack. I couldn’t help but laugh when I saw it, though Jean admitted she found it a little unsettling.

As with last time, I’m just passing through San Quintín, but I can’t shake the feeling that I’m missing out on the sport fishing. There were murals and advertisements everywhere promoting fishing excursions, such as this one, a constant reminder that this is what the town is known for. I’m making a mental note so that next time I come back, I can go with friends.

I did the next best thing and had fish tacos. I ordered five at a roadside restaurant and polished off three of them in one go. This was my second round of the day. If you look closely, there’s even an angry Trump straw in the lemonade. The fish tacos were, needless to say, excellent.

Finally, my route from Cataviña to San Quintín (185 km or 115 miles).