Baja Bound (Part 3)

This entry is part 3 of 23 in the series Baja Bound

April 7, 2023

By Simon J. Lau

Today I made it past the 225-mile gas desert. Midway through, just as expected, I had to pull over and refill using my fuel bag and Rotopax. The process was slow and a little messy, but it’s the only way to make it across this stretch. It still amazes me that such a long and well-traveled section of highway has no legitimate gas station. Riding through really drives home just how isolated this part of Baja is.

I also came across my first dead cow in Baja. People say it’s common here, often the result of car collisions, but in this case I think it may have just died from natural causes. Still, it was unsettling to see such a massive animal lying on the side of the road, slowly decomposing under the desert sun.

I’m spending tonight in Guerrero Negro, the first notable town you reach when crossing into Baja California Sur. It’s best known as a hub for whale watching, especially during the winter months when gray whales migrate to the nearby lagoons. The town itself is fairly small and practical, built more for function than charm, with a grid of low-slung buildings, dusty streets, and a few scattered shops and restaurants. Still, after so many miles of open desert, it feels like a welcome stop.

What struck me as unusual was finding a Thrifty’s Ice Cream shop. I used to have Thrifty’s often as a kid, so I usually associate it with California strip malls. Seeing it planted in the middle of a desert town felt oddly nostalgic and out of place at the same time.

Equally unexpected was the presence of a massive Elektra store. This department store chain sells everything from electronics and furniture to motorcycles. The bright, modern building towered over the otherwise modest town center, a clear reminder of how these big retail chains extend their reach into even the most remote corners of Mexico.

When I went out in search of food, most places were closed for Good Friday. Remembering what I usually do on Christmas, I headed to a Chinese restaurant called Doña Tila China Express. The name turned out to be misleading, there wasn’t a single Chinese dish on the menu. A quick glance behind the counter revealed no Chinese staff in the kitchen either, which explained a lot. With few other options, I asked the server for a recommendation, and she suggested fish and chips served with tortillas. So that’s how I decided on dinner.

My hotel, TerraSal, is both the cheapest place I’ve booked (~$41 USD/night) and one of the best I’ve stayed at in Baja. The rooms are spacious, clean, and comfortable, and the property even has private parking. Wilbur is really moving up in the world!

To add to my list of small travel challenges, none of the laundromats are open today. Since I’m running low on clean clothes, I had to hand wash them using my new portable washboard, which conveniently doubles as a drying rack for plates. 😅 I’m not sure everything will dry in time, but we’ll see.

Finally, my route from Cataviña to Guerrero Negro (239 km or 149 miles).