Baja Bound (Part 6)

This entry is part 6 of 23 in the series Baja Bound

April 10, 2023

By Simon J. Lau

I spent today wandering Loreto. The Spanish presence in the Californias began here in 1697, when Jesuit missionaries arrived and built Mission Loreto, which still stands today. From that foothold, Loreto grew into the capital of the Californias, and later the first capital of Baja California Sur. The capital eventually moved to La Paz, and Loreto took on a quieter role.

Today it carries the title of Pueblo Mágico, which translates to “Magic Town,” a designation the Mexican government gives to towns with special cultural and historical significance. For Loreto, that recognition speaks to both its deep colonial history and the character it has held onto over the centuries, with quiet streets, a still-standing mission, and a strong sense of identity shaped by its place between the sea and the mountains.

The highlight of today was finally sitting down to eat. After piling on miles in the saddle and struggling to find hotels open over Easter weekend, this felt like the first real chance to enjoy the seafood since crossing the border. 🍤 🐠

With Holy Week over, the crowds cleared out and the domestic travelers all headed home. That left me as the only guest in the restaurant. One that’s actually well-rated, too! My server, who was also the bartender, laughed and told me, “You’re lucky, you get the whole restaurant and the bartender to yourself!”

Naturally, I struck up a conversation with him. We ended up talking about motorcycling, the differences between how Mexicans and Americans use their bikes, the gear they wear, and the kinds of motorcycles they ride. He rides an Italika, Mexico’s homegrown brand that you see everywhere down here, from delivery scooters to small commuter bikes. I’ve been saying it wrong this whole time, and I’m embarrassed to even try to describe my pronunciation. Turns out it actually rhymes with Metallica and even sounds Italian. Funny, since it’s not Italian at all but one of the most popular motorcycle brands in Mexico. 🏍️