This entry is part 9 of 23 in the series Baja Bound

April 13, 2023

Baja Bound (Part 9)

By Simon J. Lau

Today, I focused on some self-care. This included a boat trip to Carmen Island and light snorkeling. Carmen is the largest island off Loreto, stretching nearly 20 miles long, and like the surrounding waters it’s part of the Loreto Bay National Marine Park. The island itself is rugged and mostly uninhabited, with desert hills rising straight from the sea and bays that feel completely remote.

Out on the water, I saw tremendous sea life, dolphins cutting across the bow, bright reef fish darting below, and starfish settled on the rocks. I’m not totally recovered from my fall yesterday, but I’m feeling much better now.

Afterward, I spent time learning about the history of the missions in Baja. The Jesuits who came here at the end of the 17th century were not soldiers or settlers but missionaries, often educated men from Spain and Italy who volunteered for difficult assignments on the far edges of the Spanish empire. They traveled with little more than their faith and a few supplies, enduring long sea voyages, disease, and the stark conditions of the Baja desert.

What struck me is how much they relied on the local indigenous communities. The Jesuits often learned native languages, depended on local knowledge of the land and water, and built relationships that allowed them to survive in a place where resources were scarce. Their determination to plant a lasting presence here, despite isolation and constant hardship, is what made the early missions successful.

Finally, for my last night in Loreto, I tried something unexpected: soul food. After a week of Mexican meals every night, I was ready for a change, and this hit the spot, especially the mac and cheese.

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