Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah (Part 25)

This entry is part 25 of 30 in the series Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah

April 25, 2024

Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah (Part 25)

By Simon J. Lau

Amarillo has long served as a key hub in the American West. The area was originally home to Native American tribes and later saw European exploration in the 16th century, but the city itself did not flourish until the late 19th century with the arrival of the railroad. Its location along major cattle trails quickly made it a center of the cattle industry, and the discovery of oil and natural gas in the early 20th century transformed Amarillo into a significant energy hub.

Just outside Amarillo, along historic Route 66, sits one of the most iconic roadside attractions in America: Cadillac Ranch. Created in 1974 by the art collective Ant Farm, it features ten Cadillacs buried nose-first in the ground at an angle matching that of the Great Pyramid of Giza.

Over the years, the cars have been coated in layer upon layer of colorful graffiti, with visitors invited to leave their mark and add to the ever-changing artwork. The installation reflects America’s love of cars and the open road while also serving as a playful commentary on consumerism and the fleeting nature of material culture.

While we were there, we ran into a group of volunteer firefighters visiting from Colorado. I offered to snap a photo of them, and they turned out to be a pretty sharp-looking crew.

Amarillo really impressed me. I expected it to feel small, but it turned out to be larger than I imagined and full of things to see and do. Even though we only stayed one night, it more than exceeded my expectations.

As we continued westward, we roughly followed historic Route 66. Established in 1926, it stretched more than 2,400 miles from Chicago to Santa Monica and became one of America’s most famous highways. For much of the 20th century, it carried migrants, tourists, and goods across the West, lined with motels, diners, and gas stations to serve travelers. Its prominence faded in the 1950s and 1960s with the construction of the Interstate Highway System, but its legacy still looms large.

Many small towns along Route 66 are now just a shadow of their former selves, and Tucumcari is one of them. Founded in the late 19th century as a railroad town, it grew into a bustling hub of transportation and commerce in the Southwest. Its colorful neon signs and landmarks like the Blue Swallow Motel came to define the classic Route 66 experience.

My favorite landmark was the Motel Safari, which began a full restoration in 2008. Built in the 1950s, it features classic mid-century elements like neon signage and retro decor. As one of the few surviving vintage motels in Tucumcari, it stands as a reminder of the golden era of American road trips and the vibrant culture of roadside hospitality.

I can’t speak to the quality or accuracy of the restoration, but it was easily the nicest motel I saw along this stretch of Route 66. If I pass through again, I’d love to spend a night there. There’s something about America’s Golden Era that speaks to me, and this motel seems to capture it perfectly.

Finally, here’s our route from Amarillo to Santa Fe (279 miles or 449 km).