March 31, 2025
Letters from Indochina (Part 1)
By Simon J. Lau
Today marks the start of my Indochina trip! Historically, “Indochina” refers to the region of Southeast Asia once colonized by the French — specifically Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. Though each country has its own distinct culture and history, they share a layered legacy of colonialism, war, and resilience. I’ll dive deeper into each as I go, but first up is Cambodia.
Cambodia is a country of contrasts — ancient temples, vibrant street life, and deep scars from its recent past. Most people know it for Angkor Wat, but its story stretches far beyond its ruins. In the 19th century, under pressure from its more powerful neighbors — Siam (modern-day Thailand) to the west and Vietnam to the east — Cambodia voluntarily sought French protection. That move brought the kingdom under colonial rule in 1863, making it one of the three territories that formed French Indochina. Cambodia remained under French control for nearly a century before finally gaining independence in 1953.
After 22 grueling hours in the air and in transit, I finally arrived in Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh. Once known as the “Pearl of Asia,” it was a city of leafy boulevards, golden spires, and French villas. Today, it’s a mix of colonial architecture, Buddhist temples, and chaotic markets. It’s a place that feels both raw and full of potential.
It’s humid today, but luckily, I came prepared. Although it was still cold in San Francisco when I left, I arrived wearing shorts and a t-shirt. Apparently, April is typically the hottest month in Cambodia, so I’m only just getting a taste of what’s to come.
Upon arrival, I opted for a tuk-tuk to get me to my hotel. A tuk-tuk is a three-wheeled motorized rickshaw commonly used throughout Southeast Asia. It’s essentially a small open-air carriage attached to a motorbike, making it ideal for weaving through traffic. I appreciate the open-air design and the low roofline—it offers privacy from the outside while letting me discreetly snap photos of the city as we cruise along. After several moments photographing passersby and soaking in the warm breeze and smell of the city, I had a strong feeling I was going to love Cambodia.
I’m staying at a boutique hotel that cost me just $22 a night. I’m used to no-frills accommodations—since I tend to travel for long stretches and spend very little time indoors, my main priorities are affordability and cleanliness. In this case, the hotel is spotless, though it lacks an elevator, which means walking up and down four flights of stairs. My view? The roof of the building next door and a stretch of razor wire. Not exactly postcard material, but I’m satisfied.
After checking in, I wandered into the city in search of food. I ended up at a highly rated spot called Khmer Women Food. The restaurant is set in what used to be someone’s front yard, with the main house tucked farther back from the street. It felt cozy and inviting, and I went with the waitress’s recommendation: amok, a creamy fish curry often hailed as Cambodia’s national dish. I made sure to enjoy a local beer (or two), just to properly kick off the adventure.
I also stopped by the Russian Market. It’s a lively indoor maze of stalls offering everything from souvenirs and textiles to street snacks and motorbike parts. It’s hot, crowded, and chaotic—in a captivating way—full of color and life. On the flip side, I did notice a lot of raw meat left out in the open. With the heat and humidity, I can’t imagine that it was still safe to eat.
I’ll be spending the month exploring Cambodia and Vietnam, two former French colonies that, along with Laos, once made up French Indochina. Even though this was just day one, I already know this trip will be amazing.
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[…] second dish, I went with amok—the same entrée I had on my first day in Cambodia. (Although, the place in Phnom Penh did it better.) I kind of regret it—one dish was too little, but two was too much. The food, […]