April 9, 2025
Letters from Indochina (Part 10)
By Simon J. Lau
Vietnam was the cornerstone of French Indochina. Of the three territories colonized by France — Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia — Vietnam was the most populous, the most economically developed, and the most politically central to French ambitions in Southeast Asia. The French divided it into three administrative regions: Tonkin in the north, Annam in the center, and Cochinchina in the south — each governed separately to weaken any sense of national unity.
Colonial rule brought railways, French-style schools, and new industries — but also deep exploitation, heavy taxation, and widespread land dispossession. Over time, Vietnam became the heart of anti-colonial resistance. Nationalist movements — including the one that would eventually be led by Ho Chi Minh — first took root here before spreading across the region. While all of Indochina bears the scars of colonialism, Vietnam was where France dug in deepest — and where the fight for independence would become the most intense and violent.
I first visited Vietnam with Jean back in 2017, when we explored Hanoi and Da Nang. Not long after — right before starting a new role at Twitter (which feels like forever ago) — I returned solo to check out Saigon. At the time, I thought Vietnam was the most underrated travel destination in the world. It still might be! I’ll have to see.
First thing on my bucket list? Pho. I went straight to Pho Viet Nam, a Michelin-reviewed spot here in Saigon. Not only was the meal delicious—especially the noodles—but the bowl only cost me $3.50 USD. There’s really nowhere else I can think of where you get this level of quality at these kinds of prices. No wonder I think about Vietnam and its food all the time.
Even though it was already late in the afternoon—when I usually avoid caffeine—I still wanted some Vietnamese coffee. It’s world-famous for a reason: typically brewed using a slow-drip metal filter called a phin, and served with sweetened condensed milk for a rich, creamy contrast. The result is bold, sweet, and almost dessert-like.
In the mornings, it’s common to see people sitting on small stools by the sidewalk, sipping coffee and watching the world go by. I found a neighborhood joint next door, Linh Coffee, and tried a salted coffee this time. It reminded me of Salt & Straw’s Sea Salt and Caramel ice cream—creamy, lightly sweet, with a satisfying hint of salt. I could do this every day.
Later in the evening, I stopped by a rooftop bar overlooking Bui Vien Street, a nightlife hotspot in Saigon’s backpacker district. The street is famous for its neon signs, cheap beer, and loud music. In my 20s or early 30s, I might’ve loved it—but now that I’m 40, I’m totally over it. It was noisy, chaotic, and packed with revelers. I enjoyed several drinks and snapped a few photos from the rooftop, then walked home. I’m just too old for the backpacker scene. 😅
On the way back, I was convinced to try some purple sticky rice. I’d seen it plenty of times before, but this was actually my first time giving it a go. I’ve always loved sticky rice, but the real star here was the shaved coconut topping—light, fragrant, and just sweet enough to bring everything into balance.
Sadly, this will be my only night in Saigon. But from here, I’ll be slowly making my way north through Vietnam. Onward!
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