April 9, 2025
Letters from Indochina (Part 10)
By Simon J. Lau
Vietnam was the cornerstone of French Indochina. Of the three territories colonized by France — Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia — Vietnam was the most populous, the most economically developed, and the most politically central to French ambitions in Southeast Asia. The French divided it into three administrative regions: Tonkin in the north, Annam in the center, and Cochinchina in the south — each governed separately to weaken any sense of national unity.
Colonial rule brought railways, French-style schools, and new industries — but also deep exploitation, heavy taxation, and widespread land dispossession. Over time, Vietnam became the heart of anti-colonial resistance. Nationalist movements — including the one that would eventually be led by Ho Chi Minh — first took root here before spreading across the region. While all of Indochina bears the scars of colonialism, Vietnam was where France dug in deepest — and where the fight for independence would become the most intense and violent.
I first visited Vietnam with Jean back in 2017, when we explored Hanoi and Da Nang. Not long after — right before starting a new role at Twitter (which feels like forever ago) — I returned solo to check out Saigon. At the time, I thought Vietnam was the most underrated travel destination in the world. It still might be! I’ll have to see.
First thing on my bucket list? Pho. I went straight to Pho Viet Nam, a Michelin-reviewed spot here in Saigon. Not only was the meal delicious — especially the noodles — but the bowl only cost me $3.50 USD. There’s really nowhere else I can think of where you get this level of quality at these kinds of prices. No wonder I think about Vietnam and its food all the time.
Even though it was already late in the afternoon — when I usually avoid caffeine — I still wanted some Vietnamese coffee. It’s world-famous for a reason: typically brewed using a slow-drip metal filter called a phin, and served with sweetened condensed milk for a rich, creamy contrast. The result is bold, sweet, and almost dessert-like.
In the mornings, it’s common to see people sitting on small stools by the sidewalk, sipping coffee and watching the world go by. I found a neighborhood joint next door, Linh Coffee, and tried a salted coffee this time. It reminded me of Salt & Straw’s Sea Salt and Caramel ice cream — creamy, lightly sweet, with a satisfying hint of salt. I could do this every day.
Later in the evening, I stopped by a rooftop bar overlooking Bui Vien Street, a nightlife hotspot in Saigon’s backpacker district. The street is famous for its neon signs, cheap beer, and loud music. In my 20s or early 30s, I might’ve loved it — but now that I’m 40, I’m totally over it. It was noisy, chaotic, and packed with revelers. I enjoyed several drinks and snapped a few photos from the rooftop, then walked home. I’m just too old for the backpacker scene. 😅
On the way back, I was convinced to try some purple sticky rice. I’d seen it plenty of times before, but this was actually my first time giving it a go. I’ve always loved sticky rice, but the real star here was the shaved coconut topping — light, fragrant, and just sweet enough to bring everything into balance.
Sadly, this will be my only night in Saigon. But from here, I’ll slowly make my way north — through Vietnam and into Laos. Onward!
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