Letters from Indochina (Part 16)

This entry is part 16 of 39 in the series Letters from Indochina

April 15, 2025

Letters from Indochina (Part 16)

By Simon J. Lau

This morning I visited the Martyrs’ Cemetery in Hoi An. These memorials are found throughout Vietnam and honor soldiers and martyrs who died defending the country, particularly during the wars against France, the U.S., and China. They’re somber and sacred spaces.

This is my third visit to Vietnam, and there’s no way to ignore the impact that war has had on this country. Museums, memorials, and graves dot nearly every city and town, acting as silent reminders of the conflict’s toll. That said, the more time I spend here, the more I realize how misguided the American government was to think we could triumph over the Vietnamese in war.

There are countless reasons why the North Vietnamese ultimately won, but one reason lies in the different philosophies Americans and Vietnam hold around life—and limb. For example, when walking around today’s Vietnam, it’s not uncommon to see construction workers operating dangerous machinery without any protective gear. I’ve watched men cut tile with high-powered saws, no goggles in sight. Eye protection is cheap and effective—yet few are provided with it. If someone gets hurt, another worker takes their place. Labor is expendable here.

By contrast, Americans place a much higher value on individual life and safety. When you carry that difference into warfare, it’s easy to see how the U.S. could never sustain the kind of casualties that would’ve been required to “win” in Vietnam. It was a massive miscalculation on our part, and both our countries paid dearly.

In the afternoon, I left for Da Nang, a coastal city just north of Hoi An. Often called the “Miami of Vietnam,” it’s known for its long, sandy beaches and mix of modern and traditional life—but is frequently treated as a pass-through town. Ironically, I had originally been more excited about revisiting Hoi An and barely gave Da Nang a second thought. But I underestimated it.

I spent time on the beach, walking barefoot along the shore, watching parasailers drift overhead and locals laughing in the waves. With clean ocean water lapping at my feet, it felt—just for a moment—idyllic.

I wrapped up the day with dinner at a seafood spot. I ordered some of my favorites: stir fried corn with butter and giant prawns. I’ve always loved corn, and since arriving in Vietnam, I’ve grown to love these massive prawns. I left pleasantly full and very happy.

Tomorrow, I begin the Ho Chi Minh Road journey. Onward!