Letters from Indochina (Part 19)

This entry is part 19 of 44 in the series Letters from Indochina

April 18, 2025

Letters from Indochina (Part 19)

By Simon J. Lau

Today I rode from Khe Sanh to Phong Nha, a stretch often described as the most beautiful segment of the Ho Chi Minh Road. I can’t speak for the sections I haven’t ridden yet, but of all the parts I’ve seen, this was by far the most stunning.

The road wound through dense jungle, limestone karsts, and remote mountain passes, with almost no traffic, just endless greenery and dramatic landscapes. Every few kilometers, I’d pass through tiny villages, wave at farmers tending to their fields, and be reminded just how untouched this part of Vietnam still feels.

Occasionally, I had to slow down for the real locals: herds of water buffalo casually blocking the road. It’s the kind of thing that would never happen back home, but out here, it felt perfectly normal. I’ve passed dozens of herds on this trip, but these guys were particularly wary, they kept a close eye on me the whole time as I slowly rolled by.

One thing I found absolutely hilarious happened at a scenic stop. I waved to a local passing by, snapped a few photos of myself from above a bridge, and then realized the guy had completely vanished into the jungle. I just stood there thinking, “Where the hell did he go?” Honestly, moments like that remind me exactly how America lost the war.

One thing I didn’t capture photos of, but that left a real impression, was how rural Vietnamese kids interact with foreigners on bikes. It’s easy for them to spot me: I’m fully geared up in a full-face helmet, jacket, pants, and boots, while most locals zip around in flip-flops and often don’t even bother with a helmet. A lot of kids wave as I pass by, and I always make sure to wave back. Occasionally, though, a group will flip me off. Usually it’s boys, but yesterday, a group of girls flip me off too! I guess gender roles have evolved.

A few kids even stick out their hands for a high-five. I tried it the first day, but it’s tricky, usually they’re on my throttle side (the right), where I control both the gas and my primary brake. After one too-close encounter where I almost clipped a kid in the face with my handlebars, I decided it’s safer to just flash a peace sign instead. ✌🏼 Still, these little interactions have been some of the most engaging and fun parts of this trip.

Reaching Phong Nha also marks the end of the Ho Chi Minh Road portion of my journey. Although brief, what I loved most about this ride was getting to see the remote, hard-to-reach parts of central Vietnam, places that even most Vietnamese may never visit, let alone foreigners. Being able to experience these far-off corners of the country made the trip feel that much more thrilling, and a little nerve-wracking at times, but all the more memorable.

I’ve made it safely into Phong Nha, where I’ll be staying for several days. I’ll do a proper introduction to the area tomorrow, but in the meantime, I’ll leave you with this photo: an angry water buffalo I crossed paths with on my way to dinner. Judging by the look he gave me, he clearly wasn’t thrilled to see me.

After a long day of riding (about 140 miles, or 225 kilometers), I’m just happy to have made it here in one piece.

Finally, instead of breaking it up by day, here’s a full look at the Ho Chi Minh Road segments I covered this trip (a total of 326 miles, or 524 kilometers).