Letters from Indochina (Part 22)

This entry is part 22 of 43 in the series Letters from Indochina

April 21, 2025

Letters from Indochina (Part 22)

By Simon J. Lau

This morning we made the ascent deeper into Hang En. It’s about a 1-mile (1.6-kilometer) trek. It doesn’t sound long, but the trail includes several steep ascents. Add to that the fact that the ground was moist, making the rocks very slippery. In many areas, if you were to slip, you wouldn’t just fall — you’d slide a long way down before your limp body came to a rest. Fortunately, we were all fit enough to avoid that level of sudden death. 😅

The cave itself is divided between birds and bats. On one end, where the light enters, birds rule the skies. On the other, where darkness takes over, the bats hold court. My guide put it simply: “The birds and bats are always fighting. You’ll see dead bodies of both on the floor. As you get closer to the light, the birds win. As you get closer to the dark, the bats win.” He pointed to a bat carcass we passed, suggesting that it had probably been injured near the light but managed to limp back into the darkness to die. May it rest in peace.

The interior of Hang En is massive and cathedral-like. Towering stalagmites and stalactites rise and fall, and water pools across different parts of the cavernous floor. The whole space has a surreal, otherworldly feel. Even photos don’t do justice to its sheer scale — you have to stand inside it to truly grasp how small you are.

Eventually, we reached the third and final entrance of Hang En, which was arguably the grandest of the three and my personal favorite. After spending a few moments taking it all in, we took a shortcut back to our camp for lunch.

The return journey home was easily the most painful part of the trip for me. There was a brutal 1.5-hour stretch where we had to trek uphill through thick jungle. Personally, I hate uphills (and I also happen to hate downhills), so it was pure suffering. But little by little, sweaty and battered, we made it back to civilization. I like to think I made America proud. 🇺🇸

One less glamorous souvenir from the trek? Leeches. This area is notorious for them, and sure enough, one managed to latch onto my finger. What’s crazy is that I didn’t feel a thing.

For those wondering why my wedding ring is on my pinky, it’s because I’m allergic to DEET — the heavy-duty chemical used in most insect repellents. I found out the hard way that DEET causes my hands to swell, especially my fingers. At several points during this trip, my ring finger puffed up so much that my ring risked cutting off circulation. To avoid a hospital visit, I started wearing my ring on my pinky instead. (Ironically, I still need DEET to avoid getting eaten alive by jungle bugs. A vicious cycle.)

I’d also like to give major credit to our Vietnamese guides (left to right: Huu, Dat, Hoai, and Hai) and porters. They may not look especially strong at first glance, but looks can be deceiving. Most of them wore $2 Vietnamese-style Crocs, yet they were faster and more sure-footed than anyone in our group. Some even carried loads up to half their body weight in makeshift backpacks that didn’t distribute the weight well at all. These guys definitely earned their keep — and our respect. Oxalis Adventures: an outfitter I’d trust again. (Not a sponsored post.)

It’s worth mentioning that the Vietnamese government requires all guests to be accompanied by a registered guide for this cave and many others inside Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park. After decades of war and large-scale bombings, the region is still littered with unexploded ordnance (UXOs) — military explosives like bombs, shells, and mines that failed to detonate when deployed. Every year, tragic accidents still occur. Given how remote and rugged this park is, you can’t just wander off into the wilderness unless you’re willing to gamble with your life. It’s a sobering reminder of Vietnam’s wartime past — and of the lasting scars carried across much of Southeast Asia.

After the trek and a much-needed shower, I spent a few hours at a rooftop bar, taking in views of the town before my overnight bus ride. It felt like a fitting way to close out this portion of my trip in Phong Nha.

Finally, I boarded a sleeper bus to Ninh Binh. Unlike my first sleeper (which was more of a short-haul bus with lie-flat seats), this time I upgraded to a capsule-style sleeper. I’m hoping it’ll make sleeping a little easier. I guess I’ll find out tomorrow.