Letters from Indochina (Part 23)

This entry is part 23 of 43 in the series Letters from Indochina

April 22, 2025

Letters from Indochina (Part 23)

By Simon J. Lau

This morning at 5 a.m., I rolled into Ninh Binh — a small city in northern Vietnam. While the city itself is fairly unremarkable, the surrounding countryside is what makes Ninh Binh famous: massive limestone cliffs rise straight out of endless fields, creating one of the most iconic and photographed landscapes in Vietnam. Right now, I’m just a little ahead of the season. The paddies aren’t golden yet, but passing by them today, it wasn’t hard to imagine how breathtaking they’ll look when the rice is fully in bloom.

For lunch, I tried de nuong, or grilled mountain goat, a regional specialty in Ninh Binh. The goat is typically marinated with lemongrass, garlic, and other local spices before being grilled over an open flame. The result is meat that’s tender, slightly smoky, and packed with flavor — without the heavy gaminess I had expected (nothing like lamb). Instead, it tasted clean and savory, with just enough chew to remind you it’s a truly free-range animal. I’m a fan!

In the afternoon, I made my way to Trang An, a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its dramatic landscapes, winding waterways, and network of caves and ancient temples. After visiting so many caves over the past few days, I’ll admit I was starting to feel a little “caved out,” but Trang An still managed to impress me. The scenery alone — towering cliffs rising from still, jade-green waters — made the visit worthwhile.

Since the boats can hold up to four people, I was paired with a Vietnamese couple. Even though we didn’t share a common language, we quickly fell into an easy rhythm, helping each other on and off the boat at the different stops. They chatted with each other throughout the ride while I mostly sat back and enjoyed the scenery. It wasn’t exactly a quiet ride, but it was still a companionable one — and honestly, it was nice to have a little company without the pressure to make conversation.

Tomorrow, I mosey on to Pu Luong. Onward!