April 27, 2025
Letters from Indochina (Part 28)
By Simon J. Lau

This morning, I had my first taste of northern-style pho in a long time. Northern pho is simpler than its southern cousin — the broth is cleaner, the toppings are minimal, and it usually comes with just a few herbs. Southern pho, which is what most Americans are used to, tends to be heavier, sweeter, and loaded with garnishes like bean sprouts, basil, and hoisin sauce. Eating it again reminded me how much I prefer the broth of northern-style pho.

Soon after breakfast, I waited for my bus to Ha Giang to start the Ha Giang Loop — one of the two most famous motorcycle loops in Southeast Asia. Unfortunately, the vendor I chose, who will remain anonymous, turned out to be terrible. For example, some kid from the office called me this morning, frantically asking where I was. I told him, “Buffalo Hostel” — the meeting point we had agreed on in Hanoi. He asked me to go on video, so I showed him. He started laughing and said, “Bruh, you should have been in Ha Giang!” That’s when I realized they had never updated my itinerary, even though I had clearly let them know. Because of their mistake, today’s group was delayed by over an hour — no fault of my own.
I confirmed they’d still be picking me up. When the bus arrived, I got my first glimpse of the tour group — and that’s when the doubts started creeping in. They were mostly the grimy European backpacker type: guys with greasy hair and regrettable tattoos, and girls who looked like they’d been following an emo band. No knock on them — but it was clear this wasn’t my crowd.
Then things went from bad to worse. We arrived in Ha Giang and were dropped off at our hostel — which was packed with even more of the same crowd. There was no way in hell I was going to spend one night there, let alone four days trapped with them on what was supposed to be one of the highlights of my trip. Maybe if I were younger, I would’ve actually enjoyed being part of that scene. Or if I were more naive, I might’ve just sucked it up and gone along with it. But not today. Not now. I just left.
It reminded me, on a smaller scale, of a story a friend told me: he had just moved into graduate housing to start medical school at Temple University. That morning, he was introducing himself to new suitemates and classmates. That afternoon, UCLA called to say they were pulling him off the waitlist if he was still interested in joining. He immediately packed up, said a few quick goodbyes, and bought a one-way ticket to Los Angeles. That story stuck with me. In my case, I didn’t even bother to say goodbye.
On my way out, I contacted my sales rep and told him I was canceling the tour. I hadn’t paid yet, but since they had bussed me to Ha Giang, I offered to pay for the bus fare — which I did, and he appreciated. Even though the group tour was off the table, I still planned to do the Ha Giang Loop. I immediately reached out to a national motorbike rental company known for their high-quality bikes — they happened to have a shop in Ha Giang — and scheduled a pickup for tomorrow. The moment I booked it, I felt so much relief.


Ha Giang is a sleepy town, mainly used as a springboard to begin the Ha Giang Loop. There aren’t many places to eat or things to do. Still, I found a way to celebrate — a small spot serving greasy beef noodles. I even spent some time playing with a couple of local kids. Despite the modest surroundings, the moment felt magical.

After dinner, reality hit: I didn’t have a place to sleep. I pulled up Google Maps to see where my motorbike shop was and looked for hotels nearby. One hotel was rated way higher than the others — and obviously more expensive. I walked over and asked the front desk if they had any rooms. They did, but the guy quoted me a price higher than what I had seen online.
By now it was 7 p.m., and I figured whatever vacancies were left were probably going unfilled, so I pushed back. I threw out the price of the shittiest hotel on the block. At first, he brushed me off, but I asked him to make me another offer. We finally met halfway. That’s how I ended up staying in the nicest hotel on the street — for $12.
If there’s one thing I took away from today, it’s this: trust your gut. Too often, we pressure ourselves to do the polite thing or avoid awkward situations, only to end up miserable. I’m so glad I pulled the plug on this slow moving train wreck. Now, I’m genuinely excited for what’s ahead. Onward!
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