Letters from Indochina (Part 32)

This entry is part 32 of 43 in the series Letters from Indochina

May 1, 2025

Letters from Indochina (Part 32)

By Simon J. Lau

Today’s my last day on the Ha Giang Loop. Unlike the first three days, which mostly follow a tried-and-true route, the final leg offers several variations. I chose a lesser-known path, one I pieced together (or maybe made up?) from a map that didn’t even list highway numbers, hoping it would make for a more interesting ride.

The ride was definitely more interesting, some of the worst roads I’ve seen, with long stretches completely washed out. But that came with a silver lining: these weren’t conditions you’d want to tackle on a scooter, especially with two people, so the tourists were gone. Still, a couple hours in, I started to wonder if I’d have to turn back.

I can handle rocky sections, but not for long stretches. I’m carrying a lot of gear, including delicate equipment like my DSLR and laptop, and the longer I’m off-road, the greater the risk of a fall. Not only could I damage my gear, but I’ve had moments in the past where I was too gassed to lift the bike on my own. I’ve decided off-road riding is something I’ll take on with friends, just not solo.

Thankfully, the road conditions gradually improved, and I didn’t turn back. It would’ve been a hassle, and a real mistake. I would’ve missed out on some of the loop’s best views and some of my best riding in Vietnam. In the end, everything just came together.

It was a fitting way to end the journey, my final day motorbiking in Vietnam, and my last ride with Bun Bo. She was a reliable pony, just like Banh Mi before her, and I was glad to have her with me for this stretch. From what I’ve seen, the Vietnamese are among the best low-speed riders in the world, fluid and precise in city traffic, and just as confident weaving through tight mountain roads. Riding alongside them has made me a better rider.

Now that I’ve completed the Ha Giang Loop, I can say that choosing to ride it solo was absolutely the right call. I loved the freedom to chart my own course and set my own tempo. More than that, it was confidence-building: connecting with strangers, navigating remote areas, and figuring things out on my own. If this experience taught me anything, it’s that I don’t need the safety net of a group to feel grounded. Sometimes, the most meaningful experiences are the ones you face on your own.

Finally, here’s the full route I covered on the Ha Giang Loop (a total of 201 miles, or 323 kilometers).