Letters from Indochina (Part 6)

This entry is part 6 of 39 in the series Letters from Indochina

April 5, 2025

Letters from Indochina (Part 6)

By Simon J. Lau

Today I arrived in Siem Reap, a little city in northwestern Cambodia. While the town itself is known for its markets and nightlife, most tourists visit for one reason: to visit Angkor Wat. I’ll be here for five days and four nights, so I let myself ease into things.

For lunch, I had chicken and rice. The serving sizes in Cambodia are much smaller than in the U.S.—which probably explains why so few Cambodians are overweight (and why so many Americans are). Still, I’ve always felt the portions here are on the small side. That suspicion was confirmed when I overheard a Chinese couple order another meal because they were still hungry. And let’s be honest—the Chinese aren’t exactly known for overeating or being overweight either.

I hadn’t ordered seconds up until now, but after hearing them, I felt empowered to do the same. For my second dish, I went with amok—the same entree I had on my first day in Cambodia. (Although, the place in Phnom Penh did it better.) I kind of regret it—one dish was too little, but two was too much. The food, combined with two large beers, really did me in, and I ended up crawling back to my hotel for a long five-hour nap.

When I finally woke up in the evening, the heat had started to break. My hotel is right next to the Siem Reap River—a slow-moving, tree-lined waterway that cuts through the center of town. It’s not particularly scenic, but it gives the city a touch of calm and structure.

Along the river, there’s the Riverside Night Market, a casual open-air market filled with food stalls, souvenirs, and vendors selling everything from clothes to trinkets. I found the food stall with the most Cambodian customers and decided to have dinner there. The prices were cheap—similar to other local spots I’ve visited—but the food wasn’t quite as good. Still, the ambiance made up for it. It was warm, but sitting by the river with a cold beer and a plate of food wasn’t a bad way to end the day.

Then there’s Pub Street. It’s a neon-lit strip packed with bars, clubs, and restaurants, blasting music and catering almost exclusively to tourists. Both Pub Street and the night market draw big crowds, but unlike Riverside, where you’ll still see locals out enjoying a meal with friends or family, Pub Street feels like a total tourist trap. I walked in, took one look around, and walked right back out. There was nothing here I haven’t seen many times before.

Tomorrow I’ll be waking up at 4 a.m. to head to Angkor Wat and catch the sunrise. Tonight, I’m turning in early.