This entry is part 25 of 32 in the series Mandarin Immersion

June 8, 2023

Mandarin Immersion (Part 25)

By Simon J. Lau

Upon arriving in Kunming, the capital of Yunnan province, I discovered a vibrant cultural hub influenced by its proximity to Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar. Green Lake Park offers a glimpse into the city’s charm and that I’ll explore further later on.

The diverse food scene in Kunming bears resemblance to the culinary variety found in Singapore, offering delicious options. However, my server initially had issues understanding me, prompting a fellow foreigner (who couldn’t speak Chinese at all) to step in, which was interesting. He nearly insisted on “helping” me, but I politely declined. I, too, could use Google Translate! Despite the initial confusion, I managed to communicate my order to the server in Mandarin, much to my relief. The situation had the potential for a comedic sketch if it were recorded! 

The weather in Kunming is exceptional, arguably the best I’ve encountered in China thus far. Thanks to its high altitude, the city enjoys temperate weather year-round and boasts clean air, a rarity in many large Chinese cities. These factors have attracted numerous foreigners to settle here.

In the evening, I enjoyed drinks at a western-style bar, which my bartender referred to as a diner bar, offering sit-down food and drinks. We engaged in conversation about the significant foreign presence in Kunming and how it’s the first city in China where I’ve encountered black people. She mentioned that there are quite a few black people living here, and when I inquired about their origins, she informed me that many come from Myanmar. This was a revelation for me, as I learned that some Chinese classify individuals with very dark skin, regardless of their ancestry, as black. 

My bartender also shared a humorous anecdote about a white foreigner who, instead of learning Mandarin (the national Chinese dialect), opted to learn the local Kunming dialect. This dialect is primarily spoken in and around Kunming, not even throughout the province. That would be akin to someone solely speaking the Navajo language in America, and never spending time to learn English. It’s quite an investment of time and effort to learn a language with so little utility. Nevertheless, there is a significant foreign population, including Africans, here, and I look forward to engaging with some on this trip.

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