Today marks the beginning of my journey through Indochina, a region once ruled by France and now encompassing Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. While each country has its own distinct culture and history, they share a common legacy of colonialism, war, and a long struggle for independence. France’s foothold in the region began with 19th-century military campaigns in Vietnam and gradually expanded into broader colonial rule.

I’m still recovering from jet lag and kept waking up after 1 a.m. Eventually, I gave in and dragged myself out of bed around five to take a stroll around the neighborhood. Surprisingly, I wasn’t the only one up. By six, the city was already humming: street vendors were setting up, people were out on motorbikes, and the day was clearly underway.

This morning, I returned to what’s become my favorite breakfast spot and ordered pho along with three of the tiny Vietnamese-style coffees. Still, both the waiter and waitress laughed. They were clearly amused that anyone could drink that many cups. As I paid, I shared a translated note with them: “Coffee here is good, although the glasses are just too small for an American.” I didn’t want them thinking I was some kind of weirdo. It’s not me, it’s the American in me.

As a farewell to Phnom Penh, I went on one last photo walk. I found a busy street in front of Kandal Market, a local open-air market, tucked myself behind a parked car, and started photographing passersby as they walked, biked, and motorbiked past me. I caught a neat shot of a rickshaw just as the rider cruised by. It’s not the sharpest photo I’ve ever taken, but I liked that he turned his head right as I hit the shutter. I love capturing people’s natural, unfiltered expressions. Those fleeting little moments when they either don’t know, or have just realized, they’re being photographed.

Today started early with a full-day tour of Battambang’s countryside. Before hitting the road, I fueled up with a big plate of chicken and rice from a roadside spot near my hotel. It looked simple, but the food was fantastic. The chicken was tender and the rice was perfectly seasoned. Honestly, it blew yesterday’s upscale place out of the water.

Today, I arrived in Siem Reap, a town in northwestern Cambodia. While it’s known for its markets and nightlife, most visitors come for one reason: to see Angkor Wat. I’ll be here for five days, so I’m letting myself ease into things. First on the list: lunch.

This morning I visited Angkor Wat, Cambodia’s most iconic temple and the largest religious monument in the world. Built in the early 12th century during the height of the Khmer Empire, it stood at the heart of a vast realm that once encompassed much of mainland Southeast Asia, including present-day Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, and southern Vietnam. Angkor served as both the empire’s capital and its spiritual center, with Angkor Wat originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu.

Before heading back into the park, I realized I had only scratched the surface of the Small Circuit. It turns out the Small Circuit is actually pretty big! There was no way I’d have time to even think about the Grand Circuit today. That said, below are some highlights from this visit.

Today was my last full day in Cambodia, and I wanted to make the most of it. I woke up early again to catch the sunrise at the park, this time at sites along the Grand Circuit, a wider loop of temples that stretches beyond the more tourist-heavy Small Circuit. While the Small Circuit covers the most iconic and well-known temples, such as Angkor Wat, the Grand Circuit offers a quieter, more low-key experience, with temples that are more spread out and often less restored. I like to think of it as the park’s more rustic, unadulterated side.

Vietnam was the cornerstone of French Indochina. Of the three territories colonized by France, Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia, Vietnam was the most populous, the most economically developed, and the most politically central to French ambitions in Southeast Asia. The French divided it into three administrative regions: Tonkin in the north, Annam in the center, and Cochinchina in the south, each governed separately to weaken any sense of national unity.