Today marks the 50th anniversary of the fall of Saigon. Or, as it’s known in Vietnam, Reunification Day. While the city of Saigon fell on April 30, 1975, the seeds of its collapse were planted years earlier. The U.S. signed the Paris Peace Accords in 1973 and began withdrawing its troops, officially ending American combat involvement in Vietnam. But the support didn’t end there. The U.S. continued supplying the South Vietnamese government with weapons, funding, and equipment, and for a time, it seemed like South Vietnam might be able to hold out.

Today’s my last day on the Ha Giang Loop. Unlike the first three days, which mostly follow a tried-and-true route, the final leg offers several variations. I chose a lesser-known path, one I pieced together (or maybe made up?) from a map that didn’t even list highway numbers, hoping it would make for a more interesting ride.

After wrapping up my motorcycle ride through Ha Giang, I caught a bus back to Hanoi and arrived late last night. I was only in town for a day before heading to Laos, but I’ll be back, and when I am, I’ll finally give Hanoi a proper introduction. For now, I just wanted to share a story that’s equal parts sad and unintentionally funny.

Of the three countries that were once part of French Indochina, Laos is perhaps the least talked about, and historically, the least centralized. Before colonial rule, there wasn’t a unified Laotian state as we know it today. The region was a patchwork of small kingdoms. Over time, these kingdoms fractured, and much of the territory fell under the control of Thailand, serving as a vassal state for over a century.

This morning I visited the morning market in Luang Prabang, a narrow stretch of alleyways packed with stalls selling everything from sticky rice and cured meats to herbal remedies. Locals come here daily for fresh produce, dried spices, and regional specialties you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.

This morning, I was scheduled to join a tour to visit a remote village that’s only accessible by boat. My vendor picked me up on a Honda Ruckus, or as they call it here, a Zoomer. In the U.S., these scooters are much uglier and more utilitarian, but in Southeast Asia, Honda gives them a sleeker, more stylish look. Ironically, it’s their awkward, rugged design back home that makes them more appealing. I’ve wanted to ride one for years, and today I got a short, sweet taste of it.

This morning I finally joined the one-day tour to explore the area surrounding Nong Khiaw. (I had to cancel yesterday’s attempt after the vendor delayed our start by over an hour. I never got the partial refund I was promised, but at least we left on time today.) We started by boarding a traditional long-tail boat and heading upstream along the Nam Ou River, a scenic tributary of the Mekong that cuts through northern Laos. Like much of the region, the river is flanked by towering limestone cliffs and dense jungle.

Today was my last day in Nong Khiaw. Unfortunately, it didn’t end the way I’d hoped! First, I had planned to hike Pha Daeng Peak this morning, a mountain known for its sweeping views of the Nam Ou River valley. The trail is steep and occasionally grueling, but the real reward is at the top. Those who start before sunrise often reach the summit just in time to rise above the clouds, then watch as the mist slowly lifts to reveal the valley and town below. Many say it’s one of the best experiences in Nong Khiaw, maybe even in all of Laos. And by all accounts, it’s worth the effort.

I’m back in Luang Prabang! I had high hopes of visiting Kuang Si Falls, arguably the area’s main attraction, best known for its turquoise pools and jungle setting. Personally, I was really looking forward to a swim beneath the waterfalls. Unfortunately, several things didn’t go my way.

This morning, I visited MandaLao, an elephant sanctuary just outside of Luang Prabang. Rather than offering rides or performances, the sanctuary provides a safe, quiet home for rescued Asian elephants, many of whom come from lives of hard labor. MandaLao also serves as a place for visitors to learn about Laos’s long history with elephants, the threats they face today, and the country’s ongoing conservation efforts to protect them for future generations.