Stories from China (Part 1)

This entry is part 1 of 40 in the series Stories from China

May 15, 2023

Stories from China (Part 1)

By Simon J. Lau

I kicked off my six-week Mandarin immersion trip last weekend, finally turning years of study into real conversations. After more than five years of learning Mandarin, I hadn’t had many chances to use it much beyond the classroom. This trip was my chance to change that, starting with a long layover in Taipei.

I had 11 hours to kill, so I did what I usually do: I went exploring. The airport ATM only dispensed NT$1,000 bills (about $32 USD), and not wanting to be stuck with a pile of leftover cash, I set myself a $32 budget for the day. A true budget adventure. 😅

One rule I set for myself on this language immersion trip was simple: I had to order every meal in Mandarin. No Mandarin, no food. It turned out to be surprisingly effective. I managed to order a traditional Taiwanese breakfast, boba, and even a light lunch, all in Mandarin.

Besides eating my way through the city, I stopped by Longshan Temple, one of Taipei’s best-known landmarks. Built in the 1700s, it mixes Buddhist, Taoist, and folk traditions under one roof. Incense drifted through the air, worshippers murmured prayers, and the temple’s ornate rooftops stood in contrast to the modern skyline behind it. I wandered through the courtyards, making sure to snap photos along the way.

Afterward, I headed back out to explore more of the city. At one point, I tried to reach a new park across the highway, but after miles of walking, I couldn’t find an entrance anywhere.

On the bright side, the detour showed me how Taipei makes the most of its limited space. Areas beneath the highway had been converted into small storefronts and gathering spots, turning what might have been wasted space into something practical. In the end, Taipei was wonderful, and the whole visit cost me just $21. It was the best $21 I’ve ever spent on an adventure. 😅

Beijing, on the other hand, was a completely different experience. China’s Great Firewall hit hard, leaving me with no way to get online when I landed. With only my hotel’s name written down, I had to rely on my Mandarin to ask for help. I pieced together directions, snapped photos of maps along the way, and finally made it to the hotel late last night. It wasn’t pretty, but I made it.

My hotel is tucked away in a traditional Beijing hutong. These narrow alleyways with shared courtyards and communal bathrooms were once everywhere in northern Chinese cities. Life here used to be close-knit. Neighbors gathered in the courtyards, kids played in the alleys, and vendors pushed carts through selling snacks and vegetables. But decades of development have replaced most of them with wide roads and high-rises. Only a few remain today.

I had always wanted to stay in a hutong, so when the chance came, I took it. This one is tucked away near Tiananmen Square. The location is hard to beat, the alleys are quiet, and the setting has a certain character to it. But the building itself has clearly seen better days, with worn walls and creaky plumbing that show its age.