This entry is part 12 of 40 in the series Stories from China

May 26, 2023

Stories from China (Part 12)

By Simon J. Lau

I arrived in Chongqing! This is the largest inland city in China, with more than twice the population of New York City. Built on steep hills where the Yangtze and Jialing Rivers meet, the city rises in tiers of glass towers and winding roads, stitched together by soaring bridges and tunnels that cut straight through the mountains. The scale is staggering, both in population and in infrastructure.

I first discovered Chongqing through a music video by the Chinese rapper Gai. His video made the city look untamed and raw in a way that spoke to me. It left me curious and determined to visit someday. That day is finally here.

First thing on my bucket list was street food, so I headed straight for 81 Food Street. Unlike the night markets I’ve visited elsewhere in China, this place felt more commercialized. The vendors were packed inside a massive food court rather than lining a street, which at first seemed a little less atmospheric but turned out to be incredibly convenient. It was much easier to move from one stall to the next.

The best part was the seating. Instead of juggling skewers while standing in a busy alleyway, I could actually sit down between rounds, eat my food, and plan my next snack. With so many stalls offering everything from spicy skewers to sweet desserts, all under one roof, it felt like the entire city’s food scene condensed into one easy-to-navigate spot.

As a nightcap, I stopped by a bar near my hotel called Mr. Tipsy. My bartender and another patron were eager to chat with me, and we ended up spending the night comparing American and Chinese lifestyles, swapping stories, and talking about our favorite hard liquors and cocktails.

One thing I quickly noticed is that many locals here speak with a thick Sichuanese accent. It’s a bit like hearing English with a Southern drawl. It’s still understandable, but definitely not standard Mandarin. My listening comprehension will surely be tested here.

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