Stories from China (Part 19)

This entry is part 19 of 40 in the series Stories from China

June 2, 2023

Stories from China (Part 19)

By Simon J. Lau

I visited Xiaguan, Dali’s modern city center, and began with Erhai Park. The park is massive, with winding paths, gardens, and even a sizable amusement park tucked inside its grounds. I spent a good part of the morning wandering through the shaded walkways before moving on.

Next, I headed to Erhai Lake, the second-largest highland lake in China. The water stretched out toward the horizon, framed by distant mountains and a sky dotted with big, well-defined clouds. It was still a bright, pleasant day, perfect for walking along the shoreline. I spent several hours taking in the views and the warm afternoon air.

By the time I was ready to head back, I realized I was short on bus fare. Unlike in the US, Chinese buses don’t offer free transfers, especially if you’re paying cash, so I could only afford one leg of the trip. This is what poverty feels like.

The walk to the start of my second leg added an extra hour to my journey. By the time I finally got back, I was starving. I’d already planned to try a local specialty called shibanshao (石板烧), a style of barbecue cooked on a sizzling stone grill that reminded me a little of Korean BBQ. Instead of saving it for dinner, I gave in and had it for lunch. It turned out to be a massive meal.

One of my two favorite items was the beer. This local Chinese brew, called meigui niang (玫瑰酿), is made with grapes and poured a deep red, almost like cranberry juice. It was slightly sweet with a distinctive flavor, and I loved it.

The second was the shrimp, the last item I had. It was cooked with plenty of flair, grilled right in front of me as the final course of the meal. I genuinely enjoyed it and hope I can find a place in America that serves it again.

That said, I’d completely misunderstood the ordering system. I thought it was all-you-can-eat, but it wasn’t. The bill came out much higher than I’d expected at $45 USD. For San Francisco, that’d be pretty normal, but for China, it was definitely on the expensive side. At least it was a unique and memorable experience.