Stories from China (Part 28)

This entry is part 28 of 40 in the series Stories from China

June 11, 2023

Stories from China (Part 28)

By Simon J. Lau

I made my great return to Shanghai! The last time I visited was in 2010, and back then I didn’t know much Chinese. Now, after six years of studying Mandarin, I’ve reached a level of proficiency that lets me take in much more of what the city has to offer. Having spent time in so many of China’s ancient cities, I also feel better equipped to connect the country’s long history with its modern identity.

In my opinion, no other Chinese city blends modernity and history as seamlessly as Shanghai. The Bund is a perfect example. Once a British and American settlement, it became home to many of the largest Western banks by the 1940s. That era ended with the Communist Revolution, when those banks fled China.

After Mao’s death in 1976, China began its program of economic reforms under the leadership of Deng Xiaoping. The country moved away from strict central planning toward a more market-oriented economy, opening its doors to foreign investment and global trade. By the late 1970s and 1980s, the banks had returned. It’s a reminder of how China, and Shanghai in particular, has reinvented itself, remaining both a center of history and a modern, global hub.

I also had the pleasure of meeting my longtime language partner, Zhongbin, and his wife, Wuhui. I’ve known Zhongbin for more than four years, but we’ve never met in person. Until now.

For our first meeting, they treated me to a fantastic Chinese restaurant. Everything was delicious, but the walnut-stuffed glazed tomatoes stood out as especially good. After dinner, we walked along the Bund. The food and company were wonderful, but what really stood out to me was how well they got along.

Wuhui was playful with Zhongbin, and he responded with the same warmth and care. I enjoyed watching their easy chemistry. It reminded me how important it is to stay connected in a relationship and to make time for each other, even when life gets busy.

Finally, as a nightcap, I stopped by a popular bar near the waterfront. I struck up a conversation with my bartender and two Shanghainese girls. We talked about their lives, what it’s like for foreigners in Shanghai, and their impressions of living here.

My Mandarin has come a long way. It’s still far from perfect, but in just a few weeks in China, I’ve gained enough proficiency and confidence to talk with nearly anyone. That’s one of the things I like most about solo travel. It pushes you out of your comfort zone and into situations that can feel intimidating at first. After a few stumbles and awkward moments, though, I’ve started to feel comfortable in my own skin.