Stories from China (Part 31)

This entry is part 31 of 40 in the series Stories from China

June 14, 2023

Stories from China (Part 31)

By Simon J. Lau

I spent the afternoon wandering West Lake and its surrounding parks, celebrated for centuries for their beauty and cultural influence. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, West Lake has shaped garden design across China, Japan, and Korea. I’ll return over the next few days to explore it in depth, but today was just a scouting mission. Walking the shoreline, taking in the views, and noting which temples, pagodas, and gardens deserve more time later. There are enough to fill several days here.

In the evening, I wandered down Hefang Street, one of Hangzhou’s most historic thoroughfares. Originally built in the 12th century during the Southern Song dynasty, it has witnessed centuries of commerce, culture, and daily life. Once a bustling hub where merchants traded silk, tea, and medicine, Hefang Street is now one of the few well-preserved ancient street left in the city.

Today, it’s a pedestrian walkway lined with traditional wooden shopfronts, modern teahouses, and vendors selling everything from local snacks to handcrafted souvenirs. At one stall, rows of cured ducks hung in perfect lines, their glossy skin catching the light. A vivid reminder that food here carries as much tradition as it does flavor.

I should mention I lucked out with lodging here. I usually filter out hostels from my searches, but this one somehow slipped through. The single room looked tiny, but at $24 a night and with such a great location, I figured why not? I’m glad I gave it a shot. Plus, I was reminded of one big perk of hostels: cheap laundry service. I’ll be handing over a mountain of dirty clothes.

Finally, I ended the night at a spot called Alley Bar, a relatively new place that’s only been open for two years. I struck up a conversation with Huangpan, the co-owner and bartender, who looked to be in his early thirties and was already running such a stylish, well-regarded bar. Impressive, to say the least. He started me off with the bar’s namesake cocktail, Alley, a bourbon-based drink that was absolutely picture-perfect.

However, the real star was Hi! Sichuan. Infused with Sichuan chili peppers, it delivered a slow-building warmth that made each sip more interesting than the last. As I drank, Huangpan explained how he layers flavors, including a local flower that blooms across Hangzhou every fall. Before I left, he suggested we share a shot made from that same flower. It was fragrant, smooth, and carried just a hint of sweetness. A perfect 10/10.