Stories from China (Part 34)

This entry is part 34 of 40 in the series Stories from China

June 17, 2023

Stories from China (Part 34)

By Simon J. Lau

For my last major stop in China, I’ll be spending time in Suzhou. Founded in the 6th century BC, Suzhou is one of China’s oldest cities. It’s best known for its historic canals, part of the Grand Canal system that once connected the north and south of the country for trade and transport.

Stone bridges cross narrow waterways lined with willow trees, while boats glide past whitewashed homes that have stood for centuries. These canals have earned Suzhou the nickname “Venice of the East” and remain the city’s most defining feature.

Stone bridges cross narrow waterways lined with willow trees, while boats glide past whitewashed homes that have stood for centuries. These canals have earned Suzhou the nickname “Venice of the East” and remain the city’s most defining feature.

Another reason I came here is because my favorite Chinese TV show, All Is Well, was filmed in Suzhou. Most modern Chinese dramas are pretty forgettable since strict censorship often limits creativity, but this one was different. It was beautifully shot and featured many of Suzhou’s historic canals and landmarks. Ever since watching it, I knew I had to visit. Now here I am, and I’m so glad this is my last major stop in China. It feels like the perfect ending to a very memorable journey.

In coming here, I made the mistake of not buying my high-speed rail ticket early. It took forever to get a seat, I was delayed by more than three hours, and I had to upgrade from second class to first class just to make the trip. That said, first class turned out to be a modest but welcome improvement. There was more space, better seating, and complimentary snacks and non-alcoholic drinks. The biggest surprise, though, was my fellow passengers. Most of them seemed to be Chinese hipsters. Who would have guessed?

Unfortunately, the comfort of first class was completely offset by my very basic accommodations. It takes a lot for a place to be so bare-bones that I regret not paying more, but I regret it this time. The bathroom needed some serious TLC, and I couldn’t get the AC cool enough to make the room comfortable.

For context, I’m in a single room at a hostel, not a shared room. If I were 28 instead of 38, I might have considered sharing, but given how much I regret this single room, a shared room would have been even worse.

That said, I did get a laugh out of this. The bed above mine had Winnie the Pooh featured prominently on the mattress. This is funny because Winnie the Pooh is banned in China after netizens started using the character to poke fun at Xi Jinping.

What do you think? Any resemblance?

Finally, I stopped by a local bar. When I arrived, it was just the bartender-owner and me. At first, she made some small talk, but before long her attention drifted back to her phone. This was a first for me in China. Everywhere else I’ve been, bartenders have always taken the time to chat, especially when there were no other customers around. I was left modestly offended.