This entry is part 37 of 40 in the series Stories from China

June 20, 2023

Stories from China (Part 37)

By Simon J. Lau

For my last night in Suzhou, I decided to take in a live pingtan performance. Pingtan is a traditional form of musical storytelling that combines singing, instrumental music, and spoken narrative, often performed in the Suzhou dialect. It first emerged during the Song dynasty more than 700 years ago but reached the height of its popularity in the 19th century when Shanghai audiences embraced it as a major form of entertainment.

I’d never experienced pingtan before, so I didn’t know what to expect. Two performers sat on stage with simple instruments like a pipa and a sanxian while weaving stories through song and dialogue. Even though my grasp of the Suzhou dialect is nonexistent, I could still appreciate the rhythm, the humor in the audience’s reactions, and the elegance of the music. I stayed for the entire show and left feeling like I’d witnessed something truly special.

In the morning, I visited the Humble Administrator’s Garden, one of China’s four most famous gardens. Built in the 16th century by a retired government official, it’s best known for its rockeries, where stone formations conceal the entrance and gradually reveal the beauty of the garden within.

Now that I’ve visited three of the four famous gardens (all but the Lingering Garden, which is oddly within walking distance of where I’m staying), I can admit something: I’m just not that into gardens. I want to like them, but I can’t sit still long enough to appreciate them. I’m someone who constantly needs to be on the move.

Speaking of being on the move, I’ll be returning to Beijing for one night before heading back home to America. It’ll be bittersweet, marking the end of one journey and the quiet beginning of whatever comes next.

Prev Stories from China (Part 36)
Next Stories from China (Part 38)

Comments are closed.