This entry is part 9 of 40 in the series Stories from China

May 23, 2023

Stories from China (Part 9)

By Simon J. Lau

Today I took the high-speed rail to Wuhan. As we traveled through the countryside, I kept watching the towns and villages flash by. A dream of mine is to one day motorcycle across China, photographing and talking with people in these small communities to document their way of life. The thought of that adventure stirred in me every time I looked out the train window.

Later, I arrived in Wuhan, a city with a long and complex history. It has served as China’s capital at several key moments, most notably during the early years of the Republic and again in times of war when the government retreated inland. Today, its name is often linked to the COVID-19 outbreak, a single chapter that risks overshadowing centuries of political, cultural, and economic significance. My plan over the next few days is to explore beyond that association and see what stories the city itself has to tell.

First stop, Hubu Alley! This centuries-old street has turned into a street food paradise, with stalls serving everything from sweet desserts to hearty meals. The air was thick with the smell of grilled meats, spices, and fresh dough sizzling in oil.

I started with a plate of savory pork, rich and tender, then moved on to a bubble waffle. It was crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and still steaming when I bit into it. Every few steps revealed something new: skewers, dumplings, soups bubbling in giant pots.

Finally, I’m really happy with my hotel this time. When I travel solo, I usually book the cheapest room I can find and hope there aren’t any bedbugs. I’ve been fortunate never to encounter them (yet), but these places can still be hit or miss. This one, at only $28 a night, is the cheapest of my trip so far and also the best.

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