Baja Bound (Part 5)

This entry is part 5 of 23 in the series Baja Bound

April 9, 2023

By Simon J. Lau

Today I experienced both the highest high and the lowest low of this trip so far. Starting with the highs. I visited Bahía Concepción, a stretch of coastline famous for its turquoise waters and white-sand beaches. The bay is lined with small coves and islands, each one more inviting than the last.

I rode into Playa El Burro, one of the better-known coves, and immediately fell in love with the place. The water shimmered in shades of blue and green, so clear you could see the sandy bottom from the shore. Palapas lined the beach, a few RVs were parked along the edge, and the whole atmosphere felt laid-back and unspoiled. After miles of desert riding, the sudden burst of color and calm made it feel like stumbling onto paradise.

I came here on a friend’s recommendation to visit Nomadico, a new cafe along the beach that’s quickly making a name for itself with excellent food and coffee. I ordered a matcha latte and a crepe, the perfect treat after a long ride.

While there, I had the chance to meet the people behind it. The owners, Laura (in the middle) and Delmar (the chief roaster, whom I’ll mention more in the next section), were warm and welcoming. They were joined by Daniella (on the right), a sweet and thoughtful employee they had brought with them from their hometown of Puebla. Together, they gave the cafe the feel of a small family venture.

Delmar’s passion for coffee was immediately clear. We spent the afternoon talking about the coffee shops he and Laura built, his roasting philosophy, and his long-term vision for Nomadico. Listening to him describe his approach, equal parts craft, science, and love for the community, was inspiring. I left feeling energized by his dedication, and I’m already looking forward to catching up with him again on my return trip home.

And now for the lows. On my way to Loreto, I discovered a serious problem with my bike. The clutch wouldn’t fully engage, and with countless mountain passes ahead, I worried I might end up stranded miles from town. Somehow, I managed to coax Wilbur along and got him across the finish line.

When I arrived at my Airbnb, I reached out to a local motorcycle mechanic. Rolando came by for a home visit, quickly spotted the issue, and explained that my clutch cable was too tight, which kept the clutch from fully engaging. He reset it on the spot and then wheeled my bike around to test it. It was an amateur mistake on my part, but the fix only cost $18. It felt like the best $18 I’ve ever spent.

In celebration, I had my first drink in 68 days. What started as a plan to go 30 days sober turned into more than two months, and I found that I really enjoyed the break. I never intended to give up alcohol completely, but stepping away from it for a while felt refreshing. Now, I’m easing back in with a drink. 🍹

Overall, I’ve been very pleased with this trip. The highs and lows, especially today, have made it feel like a true adventure. It’s been unpredictable at times but always rewarding. Reaching this point marks the farthest south I’ll travel. My plan is to slow down, take my time, and savor each stop along the way, beginning right here.

Finally, my route from Santa Rosalía to Loreto (197 km or 122 miles).