April 12, 2024
Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah (Part 12)
By Simon J. Lau
This morning, we visited the Tallahassee Automobile Museum. It has a large collection of vintage cars, motorcycles, and other classic vehicles spanning more than a century. There are rows of muscle cars, rare prototypes you don’t see anywhere else, and even a few unusual models that never made it to production. Best of all, they’re dog-friendly, so Bruno got to wander through the exhibits with me.
My favorite vehicle in this collection was the Corvair, a compact car produced by Chevrolet from 1960 to 1969, notable for its unconventional rear-engine layout. It was designed to compete with European imports like the Volkswagen Beetle and offered various body styles including sedans, coupes, convertibles, and station wagons. Despite its initial popularity, safety concerns arose, particularly regarding its handling, which were highlighted in Ralph Nader’s book Unsafe at Any Speed.
I learned of the Corvair when I stumbled upon a 1961 GM promotional film, Daring the Darien, where they took three Corvairs from Chicago, through the Darien Gap, and into Colombia. For the uninitiated, the Darien Gap is a dense and virtually impassable jungle region spanning the border between Panama and Colombia. It is characterized by rugged terrain, dense rainforests, swamps, and rivers, making it one of the most challenging and dangerous areas to traverse in the world. The lack of roads or infrastructure means there are no official border crossings, making it a notorious gap on the Pan-American Highway.
The trip included twelve men, three Chevy Corvairs, and three support vehicles (including a fuel truck). By the end, all of the support vehicles were lost to the jungle. Only the Corvairs made it through, though one gave out less than a mile from the finish line when it ran out of fuel. The other two reached their destination but were ultimately left behind in Colombia, never to be seen again. I thought it was a fantastic story and brilliant marketing. Ever since, I’ve had a soft spot for the Chevy Corvair.
My second favorite vehicle wasn’t even a car, but a three-wheeled Harley motorcycle. This Harley-Davidson Servi-Car was built from 1932 to 1973 and was originally designed for commercial use, often for deliveries and small maintenance jobs. The big cargo box between the two rear wheels gave it plenty of hauling space, and its durability made it a workhorse back in the day. Bruno, however, wasn’t impressed by it.
The museum also features other Americana, including Steinway pianos, sports memorabilia, and classic speedboat motors. The classic speedboat motors in particular stood out, each one polished up and displayed like a piece of art. In a way, there was a little bit of everything for everyone at the Tallahassee Auto Museum.
Speaking of automobiles, I had to tackle my first maintenance task of the trip: a routine oil change. It turned out to be quite an ordeal. The first shop struggled to remove my drain plug, which was an aftermarket Allen screw bolt that had been stripped. They eventually gave up. Thankfully, the crew at the second shop had the ingenuity to use a vise grip to extract the old screw and replace it with a new one.
They were also a lively bunch, particularly amused by Bruno. One of them jokingly referred to him as a “killer,” unaware of his gentle nature. If only the mechanic knew, he might have dubbed Bruno the “derpy one.” Here’s Bruno goofing around, poking his head out from the driver-side window.
We arrived in St. Augustine in the afternoon and headed straight to dinner at The Floridian, a local favorite known for its seafood and Southern flavors. I ordered a tuna bowl and a couple of drinks, which hit the spot after a long day on the road. Bruno, in his mischievous way, slipped under the table, ready to snag any scraps that might come his way.
Bruno, as usual, stole the show. The couple seated next to us, Chi and Neal, noticed him right away, but it was really Chi who lit up around him. They had a mastiff/pit mix of their own named Daisy, so we ended up swapping stories and dog photos like old friends. Before heading out, Chi offered Bruno their leftover pork belly and pulled pork, and he couldn’t have been happier.
As for lodging, we’re at another Red Roof PLUS+ (I’m still amused by the PLUS+, is it “Red Roof Plus” or “Red Roof Plus Plus”?). Either way, this tier of Red Roof Inns has been great. I’d never stayed at one before this trip, but I’ve been impressed by how clean they are and the value they offer.
This one even had little touches that stood out, like pillows with different levels of firmness. I go for firm, while Bruno clearly prefers soft. And just to be clear, Red Roof isn’t sponsoring us… though Bruno and I certainly wouldn’t turn down an offer. 😅
Finally, our route from Tallahassee to St. Augustine (205 miles or 330 km).
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