April 6, 2024
Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah (Part 6)
By Simon J. Lau
This morning, we visited Big Bend National Park, tucked away in the southwest corner of Texas along the Mexico border. The park is massive and wild, with everything from desert flats to jagged mountains, winding river canyons, and abundant wildlife. We only had an hour before another long drive, but it was enough to make me want to return. Next time, I’ll explore it properly on my motorcycle.
We also visited the Terlingua Ghost Town. The place owes its existence to mining, mostly quicksilver, or mercury. In the early 1900s, the discovery of cinnabar turned it into a boomtown of more than 2,000 people, at one point ranking among the top mercury producers in the world. By the mid-1900s, though, demand dried up, the mines closed, and the town emptied out, leaving behind the crumbling remains of what was once a thriving desert community.
Life here must have been tough, but for many it was still better than what they left behind. A lot of the early settlers were Mexican immigrants escaping civil war, poverty, and political unrest. In Terlingua they found steady work, running water, a commissary, and the security of regular wages. All things considered, not bad.
Before getting into San Antonio, we stopped in Boerne, a small town about 30 miles west of the city. It was founded by German immigrants in the 1800s, and you can still see that heritage in the architecture, the food, and the festivals. Boerne also happens to sit right in the path of Monday’s solar eclipse. I haven’t decided where I’ll watch it yet, but I wanted to check out the town before making the call.
We also had dinner here, at Fritze’s, and finally got our first taste of Texas BBQ since rolling into the state yesterday. They nailed it, tender, smoky, and packed with flavor. The whole meal set me back just $22, which in San Francisco would’ve been twice the price, half the quality, and half the portion. To top it off, the staff noticed Bruno waiting outside and surprised him with two big servings of brisket and steak. God bless Texas!
As much as I love camping and catching those incredible sunrises (like the one we had this morning), I was relieved to finally land in a proper accommodation, even if it was just a Motel 6. This one looked promising from the outside, with hotel-style hallways instead of doors opening straight to the parking lot. But once inside, it was clear the room could use some serious TLC. And even though I had requested a non-smoking room, there was still a faint smell of cigarettes hanging in the air. That said, it had the things that really mattered: a high-pressure shower, working AC, and reliable internet. Bruno and I were both very thankful for that.
Finally, our route from Terlingua and Big Bend to San Antonio (466 miles or 750 km).


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