Today I crossed the border at Tecate. The process was easy, with no wait at all, though I did have to park and walk into the immigration office to obtain my FMM (similar to a Mexican visa). That meant filling out a short form, paying the fee, and getting it stamped before heading on the road. It was straightforward but it took some time.

I made it into Cataviña today. It sits deep in the Sonoran Desert, almost halfway between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez. The town is small and remote, surrounded by massive granite boulders and forests of cardón cacti, the tallest cactus species in the world.

Today I made it past the 225-mile gas desert. Midway through, just as expected, I had to pull over and refill using my fuel bag and Rotopax. The process was slow and a little messy, but it’s the only way to make it across this stretch. It still amazes me that such a long and well-traveled section of highway has no legitimate gas station. Riding through really drives home just how isolated this part of Baja is.

I made it to Santa Rosalía, a copper mining town located along the Sea of Cortez. This is my first time visiting this body of water, and to celebrate, I had fish and shrimp tacos. When driving in, you have to pass Baja’s “Highway to Hell,” a scary steep decline from the mountains into town. On the final descent, there’s a beautiful view of the sea from the left, but also the municipal dump on the right.

Today I experienced both the highest high and the lowest low so far on this trip. First, the highs. I visited Bahía Concepción, known for its beautiful beaches. I rode into Playa El Burro, one of the many coves here, and I immediately fell in love with this area.

I spent today exploring Loreto. It was a former provincial and state capital, but now it’s known as a cultural center and tourist destination. It’s also a Pueblo Mágico, designated by the federal government as a culturally significant town in Mexico. There are two others in Baja, including Tecate and Todos Santos.

Today, I visited Isla Coronado. The island and the waters around it are part of a protected area, and the first thing you notice is the water itself. It’s unbelievably clear, shifting from turquoise shallows to deep blue channels, and warm enough to swim in. Schools of fish were visible right through the surface, as if the whole place were a natural aquarium.

Today, I had my first road spill. I was on my way to San Javier Mission, the second oldest mission in Baja. There were several modest water crossings, this being one of the smaller ones, and the last one before reaching the mission. Unfortunately, as I was crossing, I didn’t see the algae in the water until it was too late. By then, I lost control. As I spun out and fell to the ground, I felt a very deep sense of fear. When I stopped sliding, I found myself pinned under my bike.

Today, I focused on some self-care. This included a boat trip to Carmen Island and light snorkeling. I saw tremendous sea life, including dolphins, starfish, and many reef fish. I’m not totally recovered from my fall yesterday, but I’m feeling much better now!

I made it back to Bahía Concepción and checked into an Airstream! I couldn’t help myself. The owner, Francesca, is from San Diego, and she manages the property with her brother. It’s a cute space and I liked it so much that I already extended my stay!