Stories from China (Part 5)

This entry is part 5 of 40 in the series Stories from China

May 19, 2023

Stories from China (Part 5)

By Simon J. Lau

Chengde, nestled in the mountains about four hours north of Beijing, was once the summer retreat of Qing dynasty emperors looking to escape the capital’s sweltering heat. Its location was no accident. Along with offering cooler temperatures, Chengde sat at a strategic crossroads between Beijing and the empire’s farthest reaches, including Mongolia (now Inner Mongolia), serving both as a military outpost and a political center.

At the heart of the city lies the Mountain Resort, a vast complex of imperial palaces, temples, and gardens that reflect architectural influences from across China. Built over nearly a century, it was designed to showcase the diversity and reach of the Qing empire, with sections modeled after landscapes and building styles from different regions. The resort is considered one of China’s four great classical gardens, alongside the Summer Palace in Beijing and the Humble Administrator’s Garden and Lingering Garden, both in Suzhou, and it remains a testament to the empire’s ambition and cultural sophistication.

In the evening, I explored and photographed a lively night market in the city center. One vendor stood over a flaming grill, scallops sizzling in their shells as he drizzled sauce over them. Smoke and fire rose into the night air, carrying the smell of garlic through the crowd.

It was a welcome sight, especially since many of Beijing’s former night markets were shut down during COVID and have yet to reopen, with some possibly gone for good. Chengde’s market felt like a glimpse of the good ‘ol days, alive with noise, color, and energy well into the night.

Finally, I decided to break from sobriety and stop by a new spot called a supermarket bar, where you simply grab bottles off the shelves and serve yourself. The 19-year-old owner told me these bars are common across China, a sort of hybrid between a bar and a convenience store. I sipped my drink while watching groups of young Chinese laughing, flirting, and chatting, the whole place buzzing with easygoing energy that made for perfect people-watching.