May 21, 2023
Stories from China (Part 7)
By Simon J. Lau
I spent the morning wandering through Chengde’s street market, where squares of purple, yellow, and white steamed cakes cooled on wire racks as shoppers wove past with bags of produce. Unlike the night market, a place for snacks and fun, this one carried a different energy. It was more focused, almost brisk. Fresh vegetables piled high, butchers cut meat to order, fish flipped in shallow tubs. Most items here felt like a daily necessity rather than a treat, which made it all the more ironic that the prettiest thing in sight was dessert.
Some vendors eyed me warily when I raised my camera, faces tightening like they’d rather not be photographed. Others smiled and waved me over, happy to show off their stalls as I tried to capture the noise, color, and small daily dramas of the place.
I wrapped up my two-day Chengde tour with a classic Muslim breakfast: a steaming bowl of lamb soup filled with meat and intestines, a plate of smashed cucumbers, and warm, flaky bread stuffed with meat. It was hearty, flavorful, and exactly what I needed after two busy days of sightseeing.
Helen, my guide, was fantastic. She curated an itinerary that mixed well-known landmarks with places most visitors tend to overlook. These private tours suit me well. I get to see the city, but more importantly, I get hours of uninterrupted language practice. By the end, I’m mentally drained in the best way possible, pushed just enough to feel my Mandarin getting sharper with each conversation.
Finally, I spent my last night in Chengde at the beer garden, a spot I’ve come to really enjoy. I hadn’t even heard of Chengde before planning this trip, but now it’s one of my favorite places in Northern China. Next time, I’d love to bring Jean here with me. 👫🏻


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