This entry is part 16 of 30 in the series Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah

April 16, 2024

Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah (Part 16)

By Simon J. Lau

This morning, we departed from Charleston. It stands as one of the oldest cities in the United States, having played a central role in the colonial era as a major port and economic hub for the region. In fact, it was a significant center of the slave trade, with the port receiving thousands of enslaved Africans who were compelled into labor on plantations throughout the South. Later, it was here that the first shots of the American Civil War were fired, marking the beginning of the conflict that would shape the nation’s history. We visited several notable landmarks, including the Pineapple Fountain at Waterfront Park, Charleston City Market, Market Hall, and The Citadel.

Pineapple Fountain: This iconic fountain takes the shape of a large pineapple, a symbol of hospitality and welcome in Southern culture. The design features multiple tiers of basins, with water flowing gently from the top down to the base. I was fortunate to catch this picture with a bird flying across the image!

Charleston City Market: This market is a bustling hub of activity in downtown and dates back to the 19th century. Spanning four blocks along Market Street, it offers a diverse array of vendors selling everything from handcrafted souvenirs and local artwork to sweetgrass baskets and fresh seafood.

Market Hall: Originally built as a market space in the early 19th century, local vendors continue to offer fresh produce, seafood, and goods on the ground floor, while the upper floor served as a venue for community gatherings and events. 

The Citadel: One of the oldest military colleges in the United States, The Citadel was founded in 1842. During the Civil War, it played a significant role, providing military training to cadets who later served in the Confederate Army. Engaged in pivotal battles like the defense of Charleston and the Battle of Fort Sumter, cadets from The Citadel were integral to Confederate efforts. Situated strategically in Charleston, a crucial Confederate stronghold, the institution’s cadets frequently defended the city and its harbor.

When I think of The Citadel, I’m reminded of Kevin Spacey’s character, Frank Underwood, from House of Cards. Underwood attended The Sentinel, a fictional military college in South Carolina. While The Sentinel is a creation of fiction, some sources suggest it draws inspiration from The Citadel. Given how much I loved that show, I just had to drop by and visit this campus. 

As an aside, amidst all the neatly dressed cadets in their uniforms, there I stood in my glow-in-the-dark English Bulldog shirt, a souvenir from Mexico. I was clearly out of place, but I loved it. 

In the afternoon, we reached Asheville. I’ll save the proper introduction of this town for tomorrow. Meanwhile, I’ll share photos from dinner, featuring delicious fried chicken and mac and cheese from Tupelo Honey. Mouthwatering! 🤤 

Meet Josie, my server. Originally from Greenville, SC, she lived in San Francisco for 6 years before returning south in 2020. She made the move back to be closer to family, saying, “My dad’s getting older and Asheville is close to home,” but she harbors plans to return to California someday. Amidst COVID, I’ve been frustrated by San Francisco’s decline. However, it was refreshing to hear Josie’s upbeat perspective on San Francisco and the state of California. I shared with her that the city does seem to be gradually rebounding, albeit slowly. Let’s hope that it continues!

Finally, our route from Charleston to Asheville (264 miles or 425 km).

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