April 15, 2024
Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah (Part 15)
By Simon J. Lau
This morning, we visited Wormsloe Historic Site, a former plantation dating back to the early 1730s. Noble Jones, an English settler, first established it on the Isle of Hope. The site is most famous for its entrance, a breathtaking mile-long driveway lined with live oaks that creates a dramatic tunnel of trees. It’s exactly the kind of grand Southern scene you’d imagine when picturing a plantation.
Farther back on the property, I was drawn to the estuary. It reminded me a little of the one I visited in Baja. Not quite as striking, but still the kind of place I could picture parking myself for a while, rod in hand, waiting for a bite. There’s probably some good fishing to be had here.
The Jones family used tabby, a kind of early concrete, to build their homes and other permanent structures. It was made by mixing oyster shells, lime, sand, and water, with the shells serving as the main aggregate since they were so plentiful along the coast. The result was a durable, weather-resistant material well-suited for the coastal environment. The technique was first brought to the Americas by the Spanish and then adapted here using local resources.
Bruno also made a new friend today. Meet Jack! Bruno was too tired to walk the mile back to the parking lot from the main part of the plantation, and the tram was full. Luckily, Jack’s mom offered to make room for us. Jack, her son, took an immediate liking to Bruno. It turns out their family used to have a mastiff/pit mix too. (That makes two families we’ve met on this trip who’ve said the same!)
Jack’s mom mentioned their dog didn’t have as big of a head as Bruno, but was just as sweet. By the end of the ride, Jack didn’t want to leave Bruno’s side. I snapped a portrait of them together. Instant buddies.
When we arrived in Charleston, we stopped for lunch at Quecology, a local BBQ spot. The server was fantastic, without me even asking, he gave me the rundown: “Go for the pulled pork or fried wings, but skip the brisket.” If only all servers were that straightforward, every meal could be this good.
When I mentioned we were on a road trip, he told me he was prepping for one of his own, from Charleston to Montana to work at a fishing lodge. I have to admit, I was a little jealous. Spending your days outdoors in the Montana wilderness at a fishing lodge sounds pretty idyllic.
As good as the service was, the food stood out even more. Quecology is all about Carolina BBQ, and down here that means mustard-based sauce. Unlike the sweet or smoky sauces you find in other parts of the country, Carolina’s version has a tangy kick that really sets it apart. That’s where Quecology nailed it, so much so that I bought a bottle to bring home for Jean. She’ll love it!
In the evening, we visited Little Palm, a very Instagrammable cocktail bar inside a mid-century modern hotel. The place is dog friendly, but the host was surprised I’d bring Bruno, a mastiff/pit mix with a huge head, to a place this classy. He didn’t realize just how much we enjoy disrupting the scene. 
Not only was the place stylish, but the crowd was lively too, full of dates and bachelorettes. One date in particular caught my eye: the guy was slipping his hand down the back of the girl’s waistband. Some might say that’s not appropriate in public, but I thought, good for you. Things went a little sideways when she took a call mid-date, but by the time I left, it seemed like they were back on track. I can only hope things worked out for them. 😅
This spot also had the best cocktail I’ve tried so far. The Riptide, a whiskey drink with blueberry, ginger, honey, and lemon. I almost never order the same thing twice when I travel, but this one was so good I had two.
Finally, our route from Savannah to Charleston (107 miles or 172 km).
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