April 16, 2024
Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah (Part 16)
By Simon J. Lau
This morning, we explored Charleston, a city that ranks among the oldest in the United States. Once a major colonial port and economic hub, it played a central role in the transatlantic slave trade, receiving thousands of Africans who were forced into labor on plantations across the South. Charleston also holds a pivotal place in American history as the site where the first shots of the Civil War were fired.
The Pineapple Fountain, a symbol of hospitality in Southern culture, is among Charleston’s most iconic sights. Designed with tiered basins, water flows gently from the top to the base. In this photo, a bird happened to fly through at just the right moment.
Charleston City Market, established in the 19th century, remains one of the city’s busiest landmarks. Spanning four blocks in the heart of downtown, it features a wide range of vendors offering handcrafted goods, artwork, sweetgrass baskets, and fresh seafood.
Market Hall, constructed in the early 19th century, has long served as a central gathering place. Today, vendors on the ground floor continue to sell fresh produce, seafood, and local goods, while the upper floor once functioned as a venue for community events and meetings.
The Citadel, founded in 1842, is one of the nation’s oldest military colleges. During the Civil War, its cadets trained and later served in the Confederate Army, taking part in key battles such as the defense of Charleston and the Battle of Fort Sumter. Today the institution remains an active military college and a prominent landmark in the city.
When I think of The Citadel, I’m reminded of Kevin Spacey’s character, Frank Underwood, from House of Cards. Underwood attended The Sentinel, a fictional military college in South Carolina. While The Sentinel is a creation of fiction, some sources suggest it draws inspiration from The Citadel. Given how much I loved that show, I just had to drop by and visit this campus.
Amid the neatly dressed cadets in their uniforms, I stood in my glow-in-the-dark English Bulldog shirt from Mexico. I was clearly out of place, but I loved it.
In the afternoon, we arrived in Asheville and had dinner at Tupelo Honey. The fried chicken and mac and cheese were mouthwatering. 🤤
While here, I mentioned to my server, Josie, that we were traveling from San Francisco. She told me she had lived there for six years, but in 2020 she moved back to Greenville, SC, to be closer to family. “My dad’s getting older, and Asheville is close to home,” she explained.
Even so, she still hopes to return to California someday. Having felt frustrated with San Francisco’s struggles during COVID, I found it refreshing to hear her speak about the city, and the state, with genuine optimism. I told her it does feel like things are starting to rebound, slowly but surely. Hopefully that momentum continues.
Finally, our route from Charleston to Asheville (264 miles or 425 km).
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