This entry is part 6 of 28 in the series Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah

April 6, 2024

Coast-to-coast: San Francisco to Savannah (Part 6)

By Simon J. Lau

This morning, we visited Big Bend National Park, situated in southwest Texas along the Mexico border. It’s known for its rugged beauty and vast wilderness. The park features diverse landscapes, from desert terrain to towering mountains, offering breathtaking vistas, winding river canyons, and abundant wildlife. Although we could only spend an hour inside the park due to another long drive ahead, it was enough to leave me convinced of the need to return. Perhaps next time, I’ll explore it further on my motorcycle!

Earlier in the morning we visited the Terlingua Ghost Town. Terlingua’s history is deeply intertwined with its mining legacy, particularly in quicksilver, or mercury. The town experienced a boom in the early 20th century due to the discovery of valuable cinnabar deposits, leading to a thriving mining industry. At its peak, Terlingua boasted a population of over 2,000 residents and was one of the largest mercury producers in the world. However, by the mid-1900s, declining demand and depleted resources caused the mines to shut down, leading to a mass exodus of inhabitants and leaving behind the remnants of a once-prosperous town.

Life in Terlingua was undoubtedly challenging for its early inhabitants, but for many, it offered a refuge from the turmoil they had experienced elsewhere. Most of these early settlers were Mexican immigrants who had fled civil war, economic hardship, and political instability in their homeland. In comparison to the conditions they faced in Mexico, Terlingua provided basic necessities such as running water, access to a well-stocked commissary, and, most importantly, stable employment opportunities that offered reliable wages. In other words, not bad!

Before reaching San Antonio, we made a stop in Boerne, situated 30 miles (or 48 km) west of San Antonio. Established by German immigrants in the 19th century, it proudly preserves its German heritage, reflected in its architecture, festivals, and culinary traditions. Additionally, Boerne finds itself at the center of the upcoming solar eclipse on Monday. While I haven’t yet finalized my plans for where to view the eclipse, I wanted to explore this town firsthand before deciding.

Before leaving town, we had dinner at Fritze’s, where we indulged in our first taste of BBQ since arriving in Texas yesterday. They got it just right, and what’s more, the entire meal only set me back $22! In San Francisco, this would cost double, offer half the quality, and serve half the portion size. As an added touch of kindness, the staff noticed Bruno waiting patiently for me outside and gave him two generous serving of brisket and steak. God bless the good folks of Texas!

As much as I love camping and and witnessing breathtaking sunrises (like the one we experienced this morning), I was relieved to finally find myself in a proper accommodation, even if it was just a Motel 6. This particular Motel 6 has a pleasant exterior, with hotel-style setups where the doors face enclosed hallways rather than the outside parking lot. However, upon entering the room, it was evident that it required much-needed TLC. Further, despite requesting a non-smoking room, there was a lingering smell of cigarette smoke. Nevertheless, the room offered a high-pressure shower, functioning AC, and reliable internet. Amenities that Bruno and I were both so grateful for!

Finally, our route from Terlingua and Big Bend to San Antonio (466 miles or 750 km).

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